Shop Talk: Tuck Muntarbhorn, co-founder of renowned fashion label Busardi

Tuck Basardi

Luxury Bangkok based label, Busardi was founded back in 2009 by Busardi and Tuck Muntarbhorn but it was at London Fashion Week 2014 that the brand's signature use of floral lace, fine appliqué and intricate embroidery began to create  a buzz in the capital. Here Busardi's co-founder, Tuck Muntarbhorn, talks fashion and the brand's A-list fans with Haute Time

Tell us a little bit about Busardi…
I co-founded Busardi with my mother (Busardi Muntarbhorn) in 2009 to create a new breed of garments that we would sell as prêt-à-couture on an international scale. We wanted to start a new chapter without all the ties associated with our heritage label, Yoswadee [Thailand’s oldest surviving fashion house], founded by my grandmother over 65 years ago.

Why do you think that Londoners love Busardi?
London is such a fast-paced and vibrant city filled with creativity. There are so many cultures contained within this city and people are constantly searching for the new. Busardi aims to reinvent tradition and innovate, and London tends to do the same. For example we keep aspects of our heritage techniques such as our signature lace appliqué and hand embroidery, but we propose silhouettes and fabrications that fit this moment in time, making our prêt-à-couture garments poised for relevance in a city like London.

Can you tell when something is going to sell well?
We tend to build up collections from research and databases from previous seasons so with some pieces we can tell that they would sell rapidly. Occasionally, some pieces do come as a surprise and sell extremely well or the opposite can happen. At Busardi, we don't feel the need to drastically change our collection every season as we want our customers to grow with us, and not confuse them - we believe this is the key to retain our customers and sell well.

What do you love most from your Autumn-Winter 2014 collection?
For Autumn/Winter 2014, we entitled our collection 'Thorns' to represent a darker wave in the label around a recurring darkened rose motif and this was what I loved most - presenting the unexpected. In previous seasons, we have defined ourselves as prim and proper but this season we sharpened our garments with a subversive and wicked edge and this idea of breaking tradition. We pumped up the glamour and oozed sex appeal which was previously outside my Mother's comfort zone - it was this novelty that made the collection a success!

What do you like about Londoners’ style?
Londoners tend to be described as edgy, but stripped down it is actually the wearer who is edgy. I have come across so many Londoners from all over the world who choose to dress to reflect who they want to be. It is in this freedom that we see such a large array of different styles from all types of individuals and subgroups in London - be it those in three-piece suits, east end hipsters or Camden punks. I have a fascination for those I call 'high-end hipsters' who are able to bring designer garments and live it on the streets.

Were you always so sure about your sense of style?
No I wasn't. It took me almost a decade to figure out what I look most elegant in. I owe my sense of style to Thamanyah's Ahmed Abdelrahman when I realised that I look most elegant in his kandoras. The Thamanyah aesthetic has become the foundation of my style and I build upon this foundation by sporting other designers who translate to Ahmed's design language.

What can we find in your wardrobe?
oads of black t-shirts from various designers,  kandorasRick Owens beanies and jackets, Issey Miyake Pleats Please capes and trousers, Margiela clutches, bags and shoes, Matthew Miller coats and jackets, Balenciaga by Ghesquière bags and jackets, Yang Li suits and coats and Yohji Yamamoto jackets.

Busardi 2

Busardi has some famous fans… Yes we have!  A lot of VIPs throughout Asia wear Busardi and in London the likes of singer Alexandra Burke and actress Emma Rigby have been spotted sporting Busardi - more to come in the next couple of months!

Who would you most like to dress? Rooney Mara! [The American actress who rose to prominence in the film adaptation of Stieg Larsson's The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.

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Lastly when you’re not busy with Busardi, how do you like to relax? I'm a regular at gigs, art events, immersive theatre productions, obscure presentations and all sorts of cocktail bars and restaurants!