Restaurant of the week: Plum & Split Milk

Mark Sargeant who once worked alongside Gordon Ramsay as head chef of Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s – where he earnt a coveted Michelin star – now has a restaurant of his own. And it’s nothing short of spectacular.

Situated on the first floor of the newly restored Great Northern HotelPlum & Spilt Milk (the name originates from the livery colours of the dining cars pulled by the Flying Scotsman) is a stunning space. Seventeen three-metre tall sash windows allow light to flood into the restaurant that’s artfully adorned with hand blown glass pendants, clusters of mirrors and curvy cream banquettes handmade by Boffi of Milan to a bespoke design.

The service is similarly flawless. Special note must be given to the charming Filippo who was quick to pull out our chairs, offer us a glass of fizz and confidently accommodated our requests.

But ‘Sarge’s’ food is just as much of a draw as the opulent setting and the slick yet friendly service. Mark Sargeant’s a la carte menu is simple (it rarely startles) and resolutely British using seasonal ingredients carefully sourced and cooked brilliantly. The Chopped salad and crispy bacon was the perfect summer starter – refreshing yet sophisticated in equal spades while my companion declared the Dressed Dorset Crab “a delight.”

Moving onto mains, all the old classics are here – think Steak tartare, Battered cod accompanied by beef dripping chips and mushy peas – but there’s plenty to excite beyond the signatures. The Pan-fried lemon sole with seaweed butter was expertly made and presented, while the Creamed spelt, sweetcorn & Scottish girolles was an equally memorable vegetarian dish.

Imaginative desserts might include a Kentish strawberry Eton Mess, Iced peanut and salted caramel mousse or a Cold Valrhona chocolate fondant.

The drinks list is similarly indulgent – there’s an appealing range of wines from around the world available by the glass and bottle plus a cracking selection of cocktails with fun sounding names like Lady Violet and Northern Sour.

All told, Plum & Spilt Milk is a breath of fresh air in the Kings Cross area. Don’t wait until your next Eurostar journey to visit: book now for the Bank Holiday weekend. This is a wonderful restaurant.