London's restaurants have developed an appetite for retro food. The Sybarite has the low down
When you think of London’s food scene, Chicken kiev, Prawn cocktails, Curried eggs, Arctic rolls and Cheese and pineapple sticks are probably the last thing you’d expect to find in the UK’s charismatic capital.
Think again. Seventies-esquefood is firmly back on the menu - something the success of Coin Laundry (www.coinlaundry.co.uk/) - the 70s inspired restaurant that opened late last year - bears testimony to.
The Exmouth Market dining spot positively celebrates the seventies - expect to find Cauliflower cheese steak, Black forest trifle, Soda stream cocktails and Angel Delight dominating the menu - and has garnered rave reviews from critics and customers alike.
The restaurant’s devotion to 'the decade that taste forgot' - can be seen in the decor too: think wooden floors and tiling, slouchy sofas, kitsch tableware plus a vintage pinball machine.
Coin Laundry isn’t the only restaurant turning back the clock… Mosey on over to Mayfair to discover that sweets at Sketch (https://sketch.london/) - Pierre Gagnaire’s gastronomic playground - are being served on an improbably old school hostess trolley straight out of the seventies.
Elsewhere 45 Jermyn Street (https://45jermynst.com) - Fortnum & Mason's newest restaurant - boasts a caviar trolley: take your pick from Iranian Beluga 000, Golden Oscietra or Siberian sturgeon, all served with scrambled eggs (the scrambling is done table-side so expect quite the show!) blinis, toast and miniature baked potatoes.
Make no mistake: Londoners are appear to be pining for seventies inspired dishes all of which begs the question is: why?
The Sybarite suspects that in these tricky times (think terrorist threats, that shock US Election, and a Brexit that is going nowhere fast), Londoners are looking for comfort and finding it in foodie pleasures from a simpler time, a golden age if you like.
And with the world in turmoil - Syria is dying, the International Criminal Court is collapsing and the era of Trump-ism is on the horizon - The Sybarite can’t see the fascination with seventies food fading anytime soon…