Some places in the world are renowned for fashion – London, New York, Paris, Rome … but Moscow?
If your perception of Moscow’s fashion scene is of grey Soviet-styles followed by lashings of logos that characterised post-Soviet 90s Russia, then you need to take a new look at this vibrant city.
Best in Travel gives you the low-down on the designers that are making Moscow fashion cool…
Gosha Rubchinskiy has wooed the fashion industry in recent seasons, with his post-Soviet take on streetwear.
Born in Moscow, the designer studied at the city’s College of Technology and Design before launching his menswear label ГОША РУБЧИНСКИЙ in 2008 describing it as “a personal take on the fetishistic uniformity of Moscow street gangs’ post-Perestroika suburb sportswear, mixed with political paraphernalia.”
Referencing Reagan’s Cold War-description of the USSR, Rubchinskiy’s first collection, Empire of Evil, was presented at the end of 2008 for SS/09. His second collection, Growing and Expanding, was shown in a disused Orthodox church-turned-gym in Moscow’s suburbs. Rubchinskiy’s third collection, The Sunrise Is Not far Behind The Mountains, consisted of three parts: a video shot in St. Petersburg, a book of photographs, and the collection itself. In 2010, the designer presented his fourth collection, Slave, as a part of Fashion East Menswear Installation.
Rubchinskiy has been working with Comme des Garçons since 2012.
Lesia Paramonova is a young fashion designer based in Moscow whose clothing and accessories brand, LES, is mostly inspired by forest and nature. The brand name is a play on Russian words: it consists of the designer’s name and also her main inspiration (LES' translates as forest).
LES was conceived in March 2012 when Paramonova won PREVIEW, a young designers award set up by MasterCard and cult Russian website LookAtMe.ru. As the main prize, Paramonova got to show her collection as part of Cycles&Seasons Fashion Week by MasterCard. Her first collection, created during her third year at university, was lauded in the foreign press, including CR Fashion Book, Italian Vogue and Grazia and American Marie Claire, and created a buzz in fashion blogs. Susie Bubble dedicated two posts to LES, while Paramonova was photographed by street-style photographers in one of the label's floral looks while visiting the Olympic Games in London.
Paramonova has created two capsule collections for Moscow boutiques. She has also collaborated with Kiehl’s. LES' stockists include Aizel, Vesna and Parisienne, showrooms Click Boutique and Air in Moscow; and S*uce shop in Dubai.
Arguably Russia’s most famous fashion designer, Valentin Yudashkin, is the only Russian designer to be bestowed with membership to the prestigious Syndicate of High Fashion in Paris and is a National Artist of Russia.
Born in Moscow in 1964, Yudashkin launched his first collection in 1987 consisting of 150 models. However it was his 1991 Faberge collection which was inspired by the famous Faberge eggs that thrust Yudashkin firmly onto the world fashion stage.
His designs have been exhibited in museums like the Louvre Museum of Fashion in Paris, the California Museum of Fashion in Los Angeles, the Metropolitan Museum in New York, and the State Historical Museum in Moscow.
Ruban was established in 2010 by sisters-designers Alice and Julia Ruban. They have come a long way in the fashion-industry, growing from intern-assistants to high-demand stylists who have collaborated with the leading fashion magazines of Russia and Ukraine. The distinctive feature of the designer duo is sophisticated cut and creative solutions.
The sisters count famous faces including Elena Perminova, Miroslava Duma, Evelina Khromchenko, Ekaterina Mukhina, Daria Veledeeva (editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar Russia), Kseniya Sobchak (editor-in-chief of l’Officiel Russia), Jurate Gurauskaite (editor-in-chief of InStyle Russia), actresses Anna Mikhalkova and Anna Chipovskaya, TV presenter Olga Shelest and blogger Zhanna Bianca as high profile fans and customers.
Artem Shumov is a menswear brand and a highly recognised name on the Moscow fashion circuit, having won several international design contests.
At the beginning of his career Shumov worked with Tatyana Parfionova, Lilia Kisselenko and Vika Gazinskaya. In the past four years, he has become one of the most popular menswear designers in Russia. Shumov’s latest collection was featured in Tranoi Showroom in Paris.
Shumov crafts clothes unaffected by the ubiquitous trends, yet with implied global ambitions, that feel remarkably fresh in capturing the zeitgeist of contemporary Russia (and beyond).