BA

Talking travel: Buenos Aires

In the first episode of Talking Travel - Women Radio Station’s new weekly show for travel news from around the world, fascinating guests and answers to your burning travel questions - we’re shining the spotlight on Buenos Aires.

Until recently Buenos Aires was starved of direct, affordable flights from the UK but - happily, listeners - change is on the horizon.

From Valentine’s Day, budget airline Norwegian Airlines will be showing its love for Argentina’s charismatic capital with the launch of the longest-ever nonstop route from Gatwick to Buenos Aires.

And the good news is that regardless of whether you’re down to your last dollar or have oodles of cash to splash, there’s plenty to do in the Paris of the South - as BA is affectionately known.


So let’s start with those who are suffering from that January skint feeling….

BA ON A BUDGET

Recoleta Cemetery
By far and away, Buenos Aires’ number one tourist attraction is Recoleta Cemetery which is open from 8am-6pm. This city of the dead is where generations of Argentina’s great and good – including Evita – were buried.
Even better? It’s absolutely free to see Evita’s final resting place.  And don’t worry about missing Eva Duarte’s mausoleum – simply follow the crowds or join a complimentary tour that’s offered in English at 11am every Tuesday and Thursday.

San Telmo market
The barrio - which means neighbourhood - of San Telmo is famous for its narrow cobbled streets and crumbling villas  – and the Feria de San Telmo (from 10am) – an unmissable Sunday market selling some of BA’s best arts, crafts and souvenirs including bombilla, the metal straw used to drink Argentina’s beloved Mate (a bitter herb drink). Even if shopping isn’t your bag, the San Telmo street market is worth visiting for the atmosphere alone: expect to see colourful street performances plus vendors loudly peddling freshly squeezed orange juice and empanadas (super South American pies).

La Casa Rosada
The Presidential palace – whose pretty pink hue demonstrates what happens when pigs blood is mixed with white paint – is home to the balcony where Argentina’s most famous son, Diego Maradona (a footballing god who made an enormous amount noise both on and off the pitch) greeted crowds from the balcony after winning the 1986 World Cup for Argentina. The pink palace is also where Evita – the country’s beloved First Lady – used to address her legion of fans often called the descamisados (shirtless ones) owing to their impoverished status.
You can tour the building for free on a Saturday or Sunday upon presentation of your passport.
www.casarosada.gob.ar

Reserva Ecologica
When the hustle and bustle of BA gets too much – as it will  – escape to the Reserva Ecologica. Compromising 360 hectares of wetlands, the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur – to give it it’s full name – is a popular place for hikers, picnickers, bird watchers (expect to see 300 species), bikers, nature lovers – river turtles, iguanas and nutria are all present and correct – alike. For the best views of the Rio Plata’s muddy waters, head to the eastern shoreline of the reserve.
www.buenosaires.gob.ar/ambienteyespaciopublico/mantenimiento/espaciosverdes/reservaecologica

La Boca
Working class La Boca is loaded with charm and colourful corrugated metal buildings (the ones that you see on the cover of every guidebook). It doesn’t cost a penny to stroll El Caminito – the barrio’s most famous street and browse the crafts and watch the tango dancers strut their stuff.

Feria de Mataderos
BA’s best kept secret, the Feria de Mataderos is held every Sunday in the working class barrio of Materados. Admittedly Materados is a bit of a schlep to reach (you’ll need to take bus 126, 155 or 180 from downtown for around 90 minutes) but it’s worth it to watch gauchos (Argentine cowboys) and folk singers entertain the crowds. The highlight however is the La sortija show: gauchos gallop at their fastest along a corridor of sand before rising up out of their saddle– leaving just their feet in the stirrups – in an attempt to spear a small ring, all the while cheered on by rowdy locals.
www.feriademataderos.ar

Milonga madness
One essential is to experience a milonga (traditional tango dance night.) Argentina is synonymous with sultry tango – a passionate dance that has seduced the world – and nowhere more so than Buenos Aires, where the spirit of tango oozes on every street corner. Confiteria Ideal (the grand dame of BA’s tango scene) and La Cathedral (quite possibly Baires’ coolest tango club) are mentioned in every guide book and for good reason.
However if you’re on a budget, look to La Glorieta – a free outdoor milonga which takes place every Saturday and Sunday evening at the Barrancas de Belgrano bandstand.


BLOW THE BUDGET
Now if you’re feeling flush, you’re in luck for while BA can be a bargain destination, it’s also a great place to blow the budget.
And if you start feeling a little guilty, consider this: life is short, you work hard and you deserve it…
 

The Clubhouse
Co-working in Argentina is on the rise but, as remote offices go, The Clubhouse stands head and shoulders above the competition.
By day this Palermo Soho destination for all things cool serves as a much needed work sanctuary for the creative industries, in a metropolis plagued by poor WiFi.
By night it’s a lively scene straight out of a magazine: model-esque staff serve top notch cocktails around the prettiest of pools, while other ‘after work’ events include art exhibits, tastings, talks by opinion leaders, theme parties, fashion shows and private dinners.


Floreria Atlantico
Floreria Atlantico – a secret, basement speakeasy – is arguably the best bar in BA right now. And that’s saying something in a city with no end of trendy places to go…. Upon entering the rather charming flower shop, look for the industrial freezer door and then descend the stairs to this decadent drinking den – the brainchild of renowned Argentine mixologist Renato ‘Tato’ Giovannoni.
Thanks to its modernist lighting and decent drinks mixed by cool staff, this long and narrow bar is great place to meet both hip locals and expats. Not hip? It doesn’t matter. The whole point of travelling is that you don’t have to be yourself.

Hotel Classico
Hotel Classico – the second project from Argentine born, Los Angeles based restaurateur and television personality, Adolfo Suaya – is without a doubt the hottest address in town, something its occupancy rates bear testimony to. This place is permanently full.
Guests can look forward to luxurious leather headboards, marble bed frames, walk-in rainfall showers, organic toiletries, chandeliers and classic images of the Paris of the South. Further draws include a seventh floor sun-deck, mezzanine level bar and basement cabaret club due to open next year.

Elena, Four Seasons Buenos Aires
For a sophisticated dinner, try Elena at the Four Seasons Hotel –  the BA bolt hole of choice for stars ranging from Sex and the City’s Kim Cattrall to U2 and Madonna. I’m not usually one for staying to the confines of a hotel but Elena – a stunning two storey courtyard restaurant – is worth making an exception for.
Rich interior furnishings – including a marble butcher’s table manned by an expert chef and locally-sourced antiques – seamlessly blend South American and European cultures in true Buenos Aires fashion, with hand-crafted finishes by local artisans adding a unique character. It’s the perfect place to throw yourself into a feast of local cuisine: think a selection of meats loved by locals, from precision-cut dry aged steaks to  Argentinian kobe beef expertly prepared on the rotisserie.

La Bombonera
You can’t leave Argentina without watching a live football match. To say that the Argentines adore football is arguably the understatement of the century. Football isn’t just a game in this country – it’s a religion.
And if you’re visiting Buenos Aires in particular, there’s absolutely no getting away from it (there are around two dozen professional teams in Argentina’s charismatic capital alone).
The country’s favourite team is Buenos Aires based Boca Juniors who play at the legendary La Bombonera stadium in working class La Boca.
Boca was also the first club of one Diego Armando Maradona – the street kid with a gift from God who succeeded in escaping the Argentine shanty town of Villa Fiorito, where he shared a room with seven siblings, to become the only footballer to set world-record for contract fees twice.
But bagging tickets to a Boca game isn’t cheap: you’ll have to part with a crazy amount of pesos through a ticket agency.

Casa Felix
My final suggestion, would be check out a puertas cerrada - aka closed-door restaurant. This underground dining concept has swept BA and basically sees talented chefs serve private dinners in their own homes.
Dining with what are, in essence, complete strangers may not be everyone’s cup of Mate (Argentina’s beloved herb tea) but – for me at least – this was a big part of the attraction. I loved breaking bread (both bitterly and metaphorically) with fellow foodies who, after a glass of Malbec, soon felt like old friends at a private dinner party. I felt a sense of community, together with a frisson of excitement throughout the evening – although the fact that most puertas cerradas are illegal may have had something to do with it.
If you’re listening/reading this and wondering how the (ever resourceful) Argentines are able to get away with running closed door restaurants that violate the law, all I can say is: this is Argentina. Laws there are rarely enforced.
If you’re going to a closed door restaurant, just don’t forget to bring cash (it’s a cash only world in Argentina) and book ahead: most closed-door restaurants are only open in the evenings from Wednesday to Saturday and, the buzz surrounding them is so big, that they tend to fill up fast

 

So there you have it! The low-down on BA…

Certainly the city can frustrate with its weekly power cuts and corruption, all of which means Buenos Aires can’t be described as an effortless destination.

But the rewards are immense: make no mistake this is one of Latin America’s most exhilarating cities where it’s still possible to bag tickets to a big gig only a few days beforehand and where dinner reservations don’t need to be made a month in advance.

It’s one of those places that makes you feel better, just by being there.
 

A love letter to Buenos Aires

Having made the journey twice before, I knew the trip to Buenos Aires - Argentina's charismatic capital -  was long but my most recent trip was madness.

I must have been in the air for more than 22 hours and, thanks to stops at New York and Dallas, it took 29 hours altogether.

To say it was something of an epic journey is an understatement but, the paradox of it all is that even though I have travelled so far, I feel very much at home. Arguably more so than I do in the UK – a place where I am beginning to feel increasingly mystified. When I left London, everyone was talking about Celebrity Big Brother – a reality show where ‘stars’ such as Scarlett Moffat ( someone known for watching TV on her sofa)– hole up in a house and have their movements monitored by the Joe Public...

I spend my days in Buenos Aires sat working away behind my MacBook, in an elegant cafe. I like going to Los 36 Billares whose famous past guests include the likes of Michaelangelo Bavio Esquii, Abelardo Arias and the beloved Frederico Garcia Lorca for a Cafe cortado (essentially a shot of espresso, with an equal amount of steamed milk) and alfajore – a melt-in-the mouth cookie guaranteed to make you close your eyes with happiness.

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However on sunny days, I prefer the sidewalk terrace of  London City - where Julio Cortazar wrote his first novel, Los Premios (The Prizes) or La Biela - a historic Recoleta coffee-house that has been serving Buenos Aires’ elite for over 70 years. On a sunny afternoon, the best tables to bag are those on the al fresco front terrace, although you’ll have to be prepared to 20 per cent more for the privilege.

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When I need to take a screen break or stretch my legs, I’ll stroll along to one of BA’s bookshops because, while book stores may be shutting down left, right and centre in every other city, the Argentine capital is positively brimming with brilliant bookshops. Make no mistake: Portenos are proud of their strong literary heritage - this, after all, is the land that has produced Jorge Luis Borges, Ernesto Sábato and Julio Cortazar - aka some of the greatest writers in the Spanish-speaking world.

Trying to choose the best bookshop in BA is akin to selecting the spottiest dog in a kennel full of Dalmatians - nigh on impossible. That being said, I have a soft for El Ateneo Grand Splendid- a stunning book store that was once a theatre, something the ornate balconies, white and gold-leaf boxes, crimson stage curtains and high painted ceilings bear testimony to - and Walrus. Run by an American photographer Geoffrey and his Argentine wife Josefina, this tiny San Telmo spot has a superb selection of both literature and non-fiction books, all in English. Other pluses include regular literary workshops and the chance to trade books with fellow literature lovers.

On Sundays, I’ll drop into Feria de San Telmo - an unmissable market selling some of BA’s best arts, crafts and souvenirs including bombilla, the metal straw used to drink Argentina’s beloved Mate (a bitter herb drink) - and watch a colourful street performances while enjoying an empanada (super South American pie) and freshly squeezed orange juice purchased from friendly street vendors, for peanut prices.

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Occasionally I’ll make the one hour bus journey to the Feria de Mataderos to watch the Sunday La sortija show: expect to see gauchos (Argentine cowboys) galloping at their fastest along a corridor of sand before rising up out of their saddle – leaving just their feet in the stirrups – in an attempt to spear a small ring, all the while cheered on by rowdy locals.

But it’s when night falls, that BA truly comes alive. Never mind the Big Apple: Buenos Aires is the real city that never sleeps. Dinner is rarely eaten before 10pm – at the earliest – while boliches (night clubs) and milongas (tango clubs) don’t open much before midnight.

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All of the aforementioned are invariably packed full of hormones, hedonism and a whole lot of fun every night of the week – even on a Monday – for as the saying goes: “An Argentine will make one peso and spend two.”

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Puerta cerradas and speakeasy bars such as Floreria Atlantico are two of the hottest nightlife trends in Baires right now, but you can find them in any city.

For me, a quintessential Buenos Aires evening revolves around tango - arguably Argentina’s greatest gift to the world. Nothing and I mean nothing is more extraordinary than watching this sultry, steamy dance live. The milonga ritual changes according to the day: Sunday sees the action take place at La Glorieta, an outdoor milonga in the barrio of  Belgrano, while the uber-cool warehouse space of La Cathedral is the place to be on Tuesday evenings. Elsewhere charming Confiteria Ideal (which  featured in the art house film Sally Potter’s Tango Lesson) comes alive on Friday evenings.

What all the venues have in common is that they don’t wind up until the wee small hours of the morning (Argentines have a fantastic ability to stay out until 5am, and somehow still be at their desks by 9am) so I’ve grown accustomed to grabbing a power nap before enjoying a night out in Tango town. And to dressing up for, despite the fact that it’s notoriously difficult (not to mention down right expensive) to buy clothes in Argentina, Portenos still remain some of the most stylishly attired people on the planet.

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On a good day - when the jacaranda trees are in bloom - I doubt there’s a city as beautiful as BA. But the Paris of the South definitely has a dark side with its weekly power cuts, corruption, ever rising prices (no one has any money now in Buenos Aires, myself included, owing to the currency devaluation implemented last December by  Mauricio Macri, the first centre right president in 12 years). Oh - and the fact that it’s impossible to walk without having to make occasional jumps to dodge the piles of dog mess, that plague the city’s side walks…

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And, on the outskirts of the city, the poor are plentiful. The descamisados (shirtless ones) inhabit shantytowns - or villas miserias as they are known - which are sadly all too common in the Argentine capital. According to TECHO, a non-profit organisation, there are 56 villas in the city including Villa 31 where five people were killed in one month alone earlier this year.  Happily improvement works, pacification programmes and mapping projects putting these hitherto invisible areas on the map, are in place under the new government - and will hopefully help change perceptions about the slums, that are often associated only with poverty and violence...

Yet for all it’s (many) problems, Buenos Aires has captured my heart and seeped into my soul. It’s one of those places that make me feel alive. And that alone is worth the arduous journey.

Words and pictures: Kaye Holland

Argentina: in the footsteps of Che Guevara

Walk in Che’s footsteps

It’s fair to say that Che Guevara – whose iconic image (think beard, black beret with a star and that intense stare) adorns t-shirts, posters and CD covers around the world – is a bit of marmite figure.

For some, the guerrilla fighter who became part of the high command during the Cuban Revolution, is Argentina’s favourite son, cherished for fighting against imperialism and social oppression the world over – so much so that French philosopher, Jean-Paul Sartre, said of Che: “He’s not only an intellectual, but also the most complete human being of our age”.

However for others, the bearded, asthmatic (though cigar chain-smoking) Argentine doctor who became the poster boy of Fidel Castro’s Cuban communist revolution, is nothing more than a squalid killer (not for nothing did he earn the nickname The Butcher of La Cabaña) and totalitarian tyrant.

But like him or loathe him, one thing is certain: if you’re travelling around Argentina, you can’t ignore Che – who was born Ernesto Guevara in the the Argentine town of Rosario back in 1928 – whose presence continues to be felt everywhere.

Touched down in Argentina to follow in Che’s footsteps? Walk this way….

 

Make for Miramar
Fans of The Motorcycle Diaries – be it the book or the film based on Che’s memoirs – will want to make for Miramar. Located just south of Mar del Plata– Argentina’s classic beach destination – Miramar was where Guevara (and his travelling companion Alberto Granado) first stopped off on his epic trip around South America as Che’s girlfriend, Chichina, was holidaying here with her family. Fast forward to 2016 and Miramar is still a hit with sun worshippers who flock here in their droves come summer, for the long wide beach and gentle waves.
Beyond the beach, get the endorphins going by horse back riding, golfing or fishing. Consult the tourist office (www.miramar.tur.ar) on the corner of Calle 21 and Costaneros for full details.

 

Rosario
The birthplace of the Argentine flag and Lionel Messi – aka the world’s best footballer – was also the birthplace of one Ernesto Guevara. Anyone on a Che pilgrimage will want to check out Entre Rios 480 – the apartment that served as Che’s first home. However Rosario’s most redeeming feature is its revitalised waterfront. Once full of derelict warehouses, the Waterfront is now Rosario’s most successful tourist area and for good reason: it’s an appealing place to people watch, enjoy a stroll or cortado (essentially a shot of espresso, with an equal amount of steamed milk)  and medialuna (small croissant) in an elegant cafe. Another must is the Monumento Nacional a La Bandera – a colossal stone oblesik beneath which Manuel Belgrano, the man who designed the Argentine flag – rests in a crypt.

 

Alta Gracia
Looking for a great day trip from Cordoba (Argentina’s second city)? We have the answer: Alta Gracia. This postcard perfect mountain town – expect sleepy streets, shady parks and picturesque plazas – is famous for its World Heritage site listed 17th century estancia (ranch) which was built between 1643-1762 by Jesuit fathers, but Alta Gracia has an affinity with Che too.
Guevara’s parents moved the family to the mountain town in 1932 after Doctors advised a drier climate to help combat Che’s several asthma. The family resided in a house called Villa Beatriz which now serves as public museum (Museo Casa de Ernesto Che Guevara, Avellaneda 501; entry AR$75) where the curious can a little more about this controversial figure through a vast photographic display. An adjacent shop sells Che memorabilia – step forward t-shirts, stamps, cigars etc.
www.altagracia.gob.ar

 

Che Guevara: a brief biography
Che Ernesto Guevara was an Argentinean-born, Cuban revolutionary leader who became a left-wing hero and whose photograph by Alberto Korda – has become one of the most conic images in the world – alongside Elvis and Coca-Cola.

Born in 1928 in the north eastern Argentine town of Rosario, Che studied medicine in Buenos Aires – Argentina’s charismatic capital – before spending six months traveling around South America by motorbike. The wide spread poverty Che saw and encountered on this journey, served as the basis for his Marxist beliefs.

After his spell travelling around South America, Che travelled to central America where, in Mexico, he met Fidel Castro and other Cuban exiles.  The rebels sailed to Cuba where they started the revolution that ultimately overthrew the Batista government in the late 1950s. Che went on to hold a key political position in Cuba during Castro’s regime, but found the bureaucracy to be unfulfilling and began to fall out with other Cuban leaders. Subsequently Guevara tried to engaged in guerrilla action and spread revolution in Africa – especially the Congo – his native Argentina and ultimately Bolivia where he was executed in 1967, by the Bolivian army with US assistance.

His body was buried in a secret location but, in 1997, Che’s remains were discovered, exhumed and returned to Cuba, where he was reburied. That same year – the 30th anniversary of his death in 1997 - the Argentine government issued a postage stamp celebrating Che’s Argentine roots.

In death, as in life, Che continues to divide opinion. He’s still seen by millions as a symbol of hope, who gave his life for the people while simultaneously condemned by many for being anti democratic (Guevara was opposed to elections and private property ownership for starters) and for ordering the execution of hundreds of Batista supporters.

Che’s now-iconic image was snapped at a memorial service by Cuban newspaper photographer Alberto Korda. It should have made Korda rich and famous, but didn’t. Revolución – the paper Korda worked for - opted not to use the photo which ended up adorning the wall of his studio, until it was spotted in early 1967 by radical Italian publisher, Giangiacomo Feltrinelli, who made frequent visits to Cuba in the early years of the revolution and had once planned to ghost Castro’s biography.

Korda gifted the photograph to Feltrinelli, as a friend of the revolution. In October of that same year, Che was captured and killed by the Bolivian army. Feltrinelli printed thousand of posters of Che and began selling them – the rest is history.

Feltrinelli became a rich man as a result of what is now acknowledged to be the world's most published photograph. Korda, however, never received any royalties until 2007 when he sued Smirnoff, who used Che’s image to sell vodka. Korda won around US$50,000 — which he donated to the Cuban healthcare system saying, simply: “If Che were still alive, he would have done the same.”

BA for free

Buenos Aires is no longer the bargain destination it once was owing to the currency devaluation implemented in December by Mauricio Macri - the first centre right president in 12 years - but happily some of the best things to do in Argentina's capital are free.

 

Recoleta Cemetery


Buenos Aires' no 1 tourist attraction? Take a bow Recoleta Cemetery (Junin 1760; 8am-6pm).
This city of the dead is where generations of Argentina's great and good - including Evita - were buried. Even better? It’s absolutely free tosee Evita’s final resting place.  And don’t worry about missing Eva Duarte’s mausoleum - simply follow the crowds or join a complimentary tour that’s offered in English at 11am every Tuesday and Thursday. If you’re visiting on weekends, check out Feria Artsenal. Located just outside the cemetery, this hugely popular fair sells a fantastic range of homemade goods.

 

San Telmo market

The barrio of San Telmo is famous for its narrow cobbled streets and crumbling villas- and the Feria de San Telmo (from 10am) - an unmissable Sunday market selling some of BA’s best arts, crafts and souvenirs including bombilla, the metal straw used to drink Argentina’s beloved Mate (a bitter herb drink). Even if shopping isn’t your bag, the San Telmo street market is worth visiting for the atmosphere alone: expect to see colourful street performances plus vendors loudly peddling freshly squeezed orange juice and empanadas (super South American pies).

La Casa Rosada


The Presidential palace - whose pretty pink hue demonstraes what happens when pigs blood is mixed with white paint - is home to the balcony where Argentina’s most famous son, Diego Maradona (a footballing god who made an enormous amount noise both on and off the pitch) greeted crowds from the balcony after winning the 1986 World Cup for Argentina. The pink palace is also where Evita - the country’s beloved First Lady - used to address her legion of fans often called the descamisados (shirtless ones) owing to their impoverished status.
The focal point of Plaza 25 de Mayo (named after the date of the first successful revolution in South America that eventually led to independence), you can tour the building for free on a Saturday or Sunday upon presentation of your passport.
www.casarosada.gob.ar

Reserva Ecologica


When the hustle and bustle of BA gets too much - as it will- escape to the Reserva Ecologica. Compromising 360 hectares of wetlands, the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur - to give it it’s full name - is a popular place for hikers, picnicers, bird watchers (expect to see 300 species), bikers, nature lovers - river turtles, iguanas and nutria are all present and correct - alike. For the best views of the Rio Plata’s muddy waters, head to the eastern shoreline of the reserve.
www.buenosaires.gob.ar/ambienteyespaciopublico/mantenimiento/espaciosverdes/reservaecologica

La Boca
Working class La Boca is loaded with charm and colourful corrugated metal buildings (the ones that you see on the cover of every guidebook). It doesn’t cost a penny to stroll El Caminito - the barrio’s most famous street and browse the crafts and watch the tango dancers strut their stuff. Close by lies the legendary La Bombonera stadium where Argentina’s favourite football team play in their famous la azul y oro (blue and gold) strip. Tickets to a Boca Juniors game are notioriously expensive not to mention almost impossible to obtain but if you’re content to just take photos outside …. Keep your camera close though for while Buenos Aires is much safer than other Latin American destinations, in barrios like La Boca you do need to exercise caution and common sense.

Feria de Mataderos
BA's best kept secret, he Feria de Mataderos is held every Sunday in the working class barrio of Materados. Admittedly Materados is a bit of a schlep to reach (you’ll need to take bus 126, 155 or 180 from downtown for around 90 minutes) but it’s worth it to watch gauchos (Argentine cowboys) and folk singers entertain the crowds. The highlight however is the La sortija show: gauchos gallop at their fastest along a corridor of sand before rising up out of their saddle– leaving just their feet in the stirrups – in an attempt to spear a small ring, all the while cheered on by rowdy locals.
www.feriademataderos.ar

Milonga madness
One essential is to experience a milonga (traditional tango dance night.) Argentina is synonymous with sultry tango – a passionate dance that has seduced the world – and nowhere more so than Buenos Aires, where the spirit of tango oozes on every street corner. Confiteria Ideal (the grand dame of BA’s tango scene) and La Cathedral (quite possibly Baires’ coolest tango club) are mentioned in every guide book and for good reason but if you're on a budget, look to La Glorieta - a free outdoor milonga which takes place every Saturday and Sunday evening at the Barrancas de Belgrano bandstand.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Argentina’s most important national arts museum contains works by A-list Argentine artists such asEdwardo Sivori, Xul Solar, Benito Quinquela Martin alongside masterpieces by European heavyweights like Toulouse Latrec, Rembrandt, Van Gogh and Picasso and crucially for those whose purse strings are suffering, entry is completely gratis!
www.mnba.gob