Dallas

Dazzling Dallas

The de facto capital of North Texas is a city worth stopping in rather than just using as a landing base. Kaye Holland discovers the real deal Dallas: designer shopping, top notch dining and chic bars 

It’s detractors may say that a pot of yoghurt has more culture than Dallas but its legion of fans beg to differ claiming that the city has world class hotels, museums and art galleries galore.

Regardless of what your stance is, there’s no denying that Dallas is good at showing off (no one is ever going to accuse the big D of being subtle). It’s big, brash and bold and there’s no point trying to resist this.

As fans of the famous TV show will tell you, Dallas has never been one to let down visitors on the eye candy front either. Whether it’s modern day oil tycoons in tuxedos and cowboy boots or Dallas Cowboys’ wags and wannabes with legs resembling resemble pipe cleaners, you’re guaranteed something to gawp at. During my Dallas sojourn I was reminded, on a daily basis ,of the power of plastic surgery: there's more spent on silicone implants in Dallas than anywhere else in the States save for LA.

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Aside from silicone, Dallas is all about shopping being the birthplace of retail therapy. As you would expect from a big city, Dallas is home to a cornucopia of shopping centres (Dallas has more malls per capita than anywhere else in the US - not to mention the second highest debt per resident) that are sure to satisfy serious shopaholics. The most noteworthy are arguably the nation’s first outdoor planned shopping center and a national historic landmark at Highland Park Village and the first indoor mall at NorthPark Center. In downtown Dallas, don’t miss the imposing six story Neiman Marcus - the first Neiman Marcus (an American luxury department store) in the country. But happily for those of you who, like me, shy away from identikit (yawn) air conditioned stores, you can also find quirky gift and clothing shops in charming neighbourhoods such as Bishop Arts District -  a two-block, former warehouse area in South Dallas - or Oak Cliff. The latter in particular is full of funky boutiques and fuelled by independent retailers and restaurateurs whose goal is to shop and eat local.

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Talking of food, chances are you’ll eat yourself into a food coma while in town. Dallas is reeling with restaurants (indulgence is one of the city’s USPs) and it’s simply a matter of choosing your pleasure. Barbecue is a Texas obsession but if you’re not mad about meat, throw yourself into a feast of local cuisine at Bread Winners - an Uptown restaurant on McKinney Avenue serving seriously good southern staples in a lush courtyard setting. Or in downtown Dallas, try Tei-An where you can chow down on handmade Japanese soba noodle dishes.

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But while Dallas is today winning plaudits for its retail therapy and restaurant scene, it was in 1963 that Lee Harvey Oswald made sure no-one would ever forget this Texas town. Fans of the late President Kennedy should seek out the Sixth Floor Museum - an excellent tribute to America’s most beloved president. You’ll find nearly 400 historic photos, six documentary films, artifacts and interpretative displays examining the life, death and legacy of JFK but nothing will prepare you for how you’ll feel upon reaching the window from which Oswald (allegedly) fired upon the motorcade. Standing in the old School Book Depository Building where  Oswald fired that fatal shot, sent shivers down my spine.

JFK

Then linger a while and let the historical poignancy seep into your bones on neighbouring Dealey Plaza and the Grassy Knoll (the white X marks the spot where the president was shot) before paying your respects to JFK at the JFK Memorial. Designed by renowned US architect,  Philip Johnson, the memorial is shaped like a cenotaph or open tomb to symbolise the freedom of JFK’s spirit.

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It wasn’t only JFK who was the subject of assassination theories. In 1980, the world asked who shot JR - a fictional character in the hit US series Dallas (1978–91). If you care about the answer, seek out Southfork Ranch. It’s within easy day tripping distance of Dallas (approximately 20 miles north) providing you have a car, but be warned: it’s a must-see for die hard fans of the the iconic TV drama only. The ranch was used for exterior filming in both the original series and the recent remake so - despite popular perception - you won’t get to see JR’s bedroom or Miss Ellie’s kitchen.

In my mind if you choose just one excursion, I’d recommend checking out the snazzy AT&T Stadium - home to the NFL Dallas Cowboys team. The Dallas cowboys are known as America’s team because they won three championships back in the 90s and both the cowboys and their cheerleaders have made a mark on American culture. Even if you have no interest in NFL, it’s worth going to a game for the atmosphere alone.

All told, Dallas can’t be described as an effortless destination. It’s a chaotic and complex city but the energy is infectious making it the perfect playground in which to start or end a trip to Texas.

For more information on Dallas and Texas, visit www.traveltex.com

Saddle up and sample the Great American West

Kaye Holland earns her spurs at Wildcatter Ranch

My feelings about cities are complicated. The very things I love about mega metropolises - the hustle and bustle, bright lights and sheer size - are also the things that threaten to overwhelm me.

And overwhelmed is without a doubt what I felt following 48 hours in Dallas. After a fabulous yet frenetic few days of shopping, dining and people watching - while in the Big D expect to be reminded of the power of plastic surgery  -  I was in  need of a reprieve from the urban crush.  Make no mistake: I had reached a point during my Texas sojourn where it was time to relax, clear out the brain clutter and recharge my battery.

But where? Enter Wildcatter Ranch, roughly a two hour drive north west of Dallas. There’s a quiet whisper in travel circles about this living, working ranch - a secret and overlooked corner of the county - that’s becoming a clamour that this year might be hard to ignore.

Wildcatter - recognised by Southern Living as one of the  ‘10 Top Texas Retreats’ -champions many of the things that the I hold dear: landscape, strong local community and wholesome food and drink (the folks at Wildcatter certainly don’t expect you to starve).

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After a hearty lunch -  eating here is bad for the waist (ladies, be warned you’ll leave a dress size larger) but good for the soul - and a warm welcome from the ranch staff I was, I realised, feeling much better already. It was a feeling that intensified upon walking into my room (a gross understatement if ever there was one), where waves of happiness washed over me.

Oil Boom

For the accommodation at Wildcatter is impeccable: there are 16 suites in total and all are individually designed meaning no two rooms are alike. My suite was called Oil Boom and had a strong sense of character - photos reflecting the area’s colorful past adorned the walls. But it's the little details - like the homemade oatmeal soaps in the vast bathrooms - that charm.

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There’s so much space in the suites you can play at being your own billionaire, before resting on divinely upholstered Queen beds. They’re the soft kind you could spend all day in but, when there is so much to see and do around the ranch, that would be a waste.

So tempting as it was after two weeks of non-stop travelling to hunker down, I decided it would be criminal not to to don my explorers hat and live out my John Wayne fantasies.

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Consequently my first afternoon at Wildcatter saw me slap on the sun cream (only mad dogs and Englishmen underestimate the power of the Texan sun), slip on my walking boots and hit the hiking trail.

As I strode through North Texas Hill Country’s ruggedly beautiful hill terrain past rocks, cacti, Mesquite, Oak, Juniper trees and bluebonnets (the vibrant Texas state flower), it struck that much of the Lone State’s appeal lies beyond the Big D. In fact the further you go from the cities, the richer your Texas experience.

Cacti

Tramping along trails in air so fresh it made me feel giddy, I saw no roads or shops - only footprints belonging to the native cowboys. As someone who is used to being squashed under sweaty armpits on the Metropolitan tube line in London, I found the vastness and emptiness lovely - and the views of the Brazos river, truly jaw dropping.

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The beauty of the historic river -  Indian massacres, outlaws and cattle drives all took place here during the mid-to-late 1800s before the oil boom - is dizzying. It’s the kind of place I thought later that evening as I watched the sun set - deep red fading to pink - from my back porch, that could make you forget your crippling commitment phobia. Even I - someone who swore off matrimony long ago - almost wanted to get married just to have a honeymoon here.

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When I was done watching the sun do its incredible sinking thing, I wandered over to Wildcatter Steakhouse for a perfect plate of tacos - the stomach lining to a menu of generous hand cut mesquite grilled steaks, baby back ribs and fresh fish. And with every meal, comes the spectacular view of thee North Texas Hill Country.

After a delicious dinner, I curled up by the Blowout Saloon’s fire with a book (note there’s no pumping party scene here but then Wildcatter stands out for what it doesn’t offer: noise, pollution, pressure, distraction) before retiring to bed.

The next morning after a good night's sleep and a brilliant breakfast of Eggs Benedict (the restaurant serves eggs any way you want them), I felt ready for adventure. There’s a whole host of excursions for the loafingly challenged including canoeing and archery, making Wildcatter a wonderful destination for self improvement.

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However I opted to saddle up and give horse back riding a go - a fab way to see more of the great Texan outdoors and converse with a real cowboy: take a bow the heartwarmingly good natured Clint.

The time I spent with Clint, 24, and his colleagues at Wildcatter and the conversations we had about how passionate they are about their work and their commitment to the ranch inspired me - even if I didn’t always share their sentiments. Sorry guys but I am never going to agree that “guns are good.”

Clint

Nonetheless I was happy to hold and fire a gun for the first time in my life -  travelling should be about new experiences, right? -  during an afternoon skeet shooting session.

Longhorns

Skeet shooting I soon discovered requires concentration and strength - two skills I  lack. But happily I did hit target once - not bad for girl from the big smoke, or so Clint kindly flattered me. For as much as I enjoyed activities such as feeding the Texan longhorns (a breed of cattle known for its characteristic horns) on offer, many of my lasting memories were gained from speaking with the staff who will bend over backwards to help you and go out of their way to make sure you fall under the spell of Wildcatter.

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At the risk of gushing, I’d recommend you visit - that would make Anne Street Skipper and her brother Glenn Street  (Wildcatter’s proprietors) and general manager, Jason McAllister’s day.

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But don’t worry about them. Be selfish and visit for yourself for Wildcatter offers the kind of complete escapism you might think impossible and even a short trip could encompass floating in the infinity edge pool under the stars, hiking, horse riding, massages and mountain ranges. After two nights at Wildcatter, I walked away just that bit taller. My message? Go for a day, a week or infinitely longer but do go and take the time to recharge something far more valuable that your iPhone: yourself.

Fabulous Fort Worth

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Don’t confuse Fort Worth with its city slicker cousin, Dallas. Cowtown – as Fort Worth is often referred to – maybe just 30 miles down the road but it’s a world away from the Big D’s bright lights and big hotels. For an authentic taste of Texas – think cowboy culture and the old west -  Fort Worth is where you go writes Kaye Holland 

Most of us are creatures of habit and as such our American holiday spots tend to be tried and trued haunts – hello Orlando and Anaheim. But if the idea of visiting Mickey et al yet again has lost its appeal, leave the coasts to first timers and take a trip to Texas.

The majority of visitors to the Lone State tend to rush to Dallas – Texas’ most mythical city owing to the success of the Dallas Cowboys football team (and their easy on the eye cheerleaders) and THAT television show (cue the theme music). It’s easy to spend a few days in Dallas shopping (Dallas has more malls per capita than any other city in the US) and enjoying the upscale dining scene, but it would be a terrible shame not to venture west to Fort Worth. And you’ll need at least a couple of days to do it justice.

For Dallas’ confident little sister is actually one of America’s fastest growing cities. But happily, despite now being the 16th largest city in the US, it hasn’t yet grown to the point where it has lost its charm.

Talking of charm, make the Downtown district – home to the newly developed 55,000 square foot Sundance Square Plaza – your first Fort Worth port of call. When savvy urbanites close their eyes and dream of the perfect urban neighbourhood, chances are it looks a lot like Downtown.

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Don’t miss the new eight foot bronze sculpture of JFK which stands in front of the Hilton Hotel (formerly Hotel Texas) in General Worth Square where Kennedy spent the final night of his presidency after giving a speech to the Fort Worth Chamber of Commerce.

But if you’re after a holiday and not a history lesson, indulge in some excellent retail therapy. The shops in downtown Fort Worth aren’t all for the masses – far from it. Individuality is what Fort Worth does best so you won’t find identikit stores. Rather the streets surrounding the attractive square are lined with cool, independent boutiques.

Retro Cowboy

I can’t fit in all my favourites but Retro Cowboy (406 Houston Street) and Peter Brothers Hats should figure on any itinerary. The former is the place to pick up cool cowboy themed souvenirs while the latter has housed and sold an elegant edit of stetsons since 1911.

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The 14 block Sundance Square is also reeling with restaurants and bars. Half the fun is taking a chance of a place you like the look of but, if you need a little guidance, I can vouch for the Bird Cafe - a stylish, split level restaurant specialising in small plates and innovative salads (the roasted beets and poached pears dish is to die for)

As a lifelong vegetarian, it’s the kind of restaurant I dream of living around the corner from but it’s not what I expected to find in barbecue obsessed Texas. I also enjoyed a hearty yet healthy black bean and quinoa dish atSpiral, an amazing organic vegan restaurant on upcoming Magnolia Avenue that proves there’s an awful lot to discover about the Lone State beyond what you know from watching John Wayne Westerns.

But of course if you want barbecue, Fort Worth won’t let you down. Texans take barbecue very, very seriously and their slow cooked chopped or sliced beef puts our charred barbecued burgers to shame.

Who does the best barbecue? It’s a topic close to Texan hearts. Every Fort Worth resident has their own opinion but in downtown Fort Worth, Reatea comes highly recommended.

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As does the Main Street Forth Worth Arts Festival – just one of the festivals filling up Forth Worth’s calendar (each month of the year, there’s something happening somewhere – a festival, a show or an exhibition). I was fortunate to be in Fort Worth during April when the annual event – ranked as the number one arts festival in Texas and the sixth largest in the US – was taking place. I really enjoyed strolling along Downtown’s main thoroughfare, admiring the works and wares of the assembled artists, dancers, musicians and exhibitors.

Water Gardens

Downtown is also where you’ll find the Fort Worth Water Gardens which occupy what was once Hell’s Half Acre – a brothel and saloon packed district where cowhands had their last bit of fun before heading out on the Chisholm Trail. The tranquil, picturesque gardens are opposite the high octane Omni Hotel – where I was lucky enough to rest my head.

I’d been expecting something fancy (everyone I met from the customs officer to my taxi driver had nodded their head approvingly when I revealed my  accommodation). But even so, I hadn’t anticipated the sheer luxury I walked into. The rooms are truly fab, boasting every amenity you could desire, and seriously spacious. They say that everything is bigger in Texas and that was certainly true of my room at the Omni which was larger than my London flat. Decor wise, they’re discreetly deluxe: pretty without being cutesy, elegant without being intimidating. Needless to say The Omni soon felt like home – though it hardly looks like it.

Omni

On day two, after a breakfast spread fit for an emperor, it was time to check out Fort Worth’s Cultural District for only a Philistine would visit the town oft called ‘Where the west began’  without seeing some of the town’s many museums and cultural sites.

I succumbed to the self imposed yet inescapable pressure of ‘the checklist’. You know: the one that demands you visit every single site, museum and monument that you’re supposed to. Take a bow the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth, the Amon Carter Museum of American Art and the Fort Worth Museum of Science and History.

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However if you’re not mad about museums, try the Kimbell Art Museum and the National Cowgirl Museum and Hall of Fame. The Kimbell - which enjoys  the moniker ‘America’s best small museum’ opened its newest addition, the Renzo Piano Pavilion, late last year (27 Nov 2013). The National Cowgirl Museum  pays homage to the likes of Laura Ingalls Wilder, Georgia O’Keeffe and Sacagawea and the remarkable development that these tough western women made to the region’s development. And exploring the Cultural District is easy thanks to Fort Worth B-Cycle, the first bike sharing system in North Texas.

But much of Fort Worth’s appeal lies in the famed Stockyards National Historic District which looks much the same as it did 100 years ago. For me the highlight of the Historic District was watching  a small herd of Texas longhorns, guided by the steady hand of the Fort Worth herd drovers, make its way down Exchange Avenue in the daily cattle drive.

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The Stockyards Cattle drive is heavily touristed – you might run into the couple you chatted with at breakfast – but it’s also a hit of bonafide culture and fabulously fun. If you’re in town on a Friday or Saturday night, catch a real live rodeo at the historic Cowtown Coliseum. The Stockyard Rodeo Championship – the world’s only year round rodeo – features bull riding, calf roping, team roping and barrel races and is a genuine Kodak moment.

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And no visit to the Stockyard District would be complete without seeing the Stockyards Hotel – where Clyde Barrow, of Bonnie and Clyde fame, holed up during his 1932 Fort Worth stay – before rocking out at Billy Bob’s Texas. The world’s largest honky tonk – formerly a barn that housed prize cattle during the Fort Worth Stock Show – is a beguiling place both for camera clad tourists and those who simply want to blend into a destination that knows how to have a good time. I enjoyed a lively night for sure playing pool, watching up and coming country stars perform and enjoying the live bull riding competition over a craft beer.

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On the subject of nightlife, every diary should have a window for a wild evening at The White Elephant Saloon. This authentic western watering hole, owned by local boy turned TV chef, Tim Love, is the kind of place you pop in for a quick, quiet drink and six hours later you’re still there – as I kind testify. I was roped into a group next to me at the bar who, with the help of too many drinks and the nightly live western music – soon felt like old friends.

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For Fort Worth is made even more inviting by its startlingly welcoming people – everyone smiles and says hello – who are happy to share their world with you. Back home I often think about the folk of Fort Worth. I remember how friendly they were to a foreign journo passing through. And I think of the improbability of it all: there just 45 minutes away from the metropolis of mayhem that is Dallas, lies lovely Fort Worth. A Texas I didn’t know existed is right there, ready to be discovered.

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Saddle up and go now (when the weather is less stifling than in the scorching high summer months) before everyone else wises up…

Getting there Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport (DFW) is located 17.5 miles from Fort Worth

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Need to know For more info on Texas, invest in Lonely Planet’s guide to Texas (£15.99)

The major US airline that behaves like a low cost one

Bashing British Airways seems to have become something of a national sport. We’re all – myself included – quick to condemn the UK’s national carrier. But if my experience with other airlines this year is anything to go by, we shouldn’t be so harsh on poor old BA. Sure the stewards and stewardesses may look matronly but the service – from the friendliness of the staff to food and in-flight entertainment options – is first class.

If only the same could be said for one of BA’s biggest competitors, American Airlines. To date I’ve flown with AA twice in 2014 and, as America’s national carrier, I had high hopes for a smooth journey upon boarding each aircraft.

I have learned the hard way: great expectations will invariably leave you as disappointed as Miss Havisham.

AA’s aircraft look and feel very antiquated. At around eight stone, I’m not a large person by any means but in an economy seat on an AA flight from London to Chicago, I felt as squashed as the proverbial can of sardines.

I’ve reached a stage in life where I not only appreciate the finer things, but I expect them and so was looking forward to relieving my seating discomfort with a cheeky alcoholic tipple over dinner. “No problem,” the attendant told me, “but you know we charge for alcohol right?”

Err. No I didn’t. And having already paid above the odds for an economy seat (when it comes to travel, my common sense flies out of the window – I’ll balk at replacing my washing machine but will happily whip out the plastic to pay for a flight) the request for a G&T was swiftly replaced with a more modest tomato juice.

I turned my attention to the television screen and decided to kill time watching a film. Only unlike BA, the movies offered by AA are on ‘loop’ meaning you don’t get to decide the time you want to watch the on screen action. Nor are you able to pause/rewind at any point. I managed to find a film that was just about to start, but the the quality of the sound system was akin to something you’d pick up at a car boot sale.

Five days later, I took an internal flight from Chicago O’Hare International Aiport to Dallas Fort-Worth – again with AA. My ticket for this two hour domestic flight came in at around US$300 so I was flabbergasted to be told, upon arrival, that I’d have to pay to check in my suitcase. Admittedly at US$25 it wasn’t a fortune but if you’re a family of four or more… What narked the most was that while AA had outlined that no snacks would be served throughout the duration of the 2.5 hour flight, there had been no mention whatsoever of a suitcase surcharge.

Everyone knows that with Easyjet, Ryanair et al, you pay to check bags into the hold. However this wasn’t something that I had expected to encounter or come across with a so called ‘proper’ airline.

Its not only AA that I am annoyed at: AeroMexico (Mexico’s national carrier) isn’t any better. I flew from London to Mexico City with AeroMexico during the festive season and sadly, despite phoning and emailing in advance to confirm my requested vegetarian meal, found myself up in the air for 10 hours with nothing to eat save for a small tub of ice cream and a rock hard bread roll.

But that’s nothing compared to what happened on a subsequent internal AeroMexico flight. My scheduled 10am flight from Mexico City to Merida was scrapped and 12 hours later, I was informed that I was being re-routed to Cancun. I made it around midnight – if only my luggage had too. It was a frustrating four days before my bags and I were reunited in Cancun, a destination that I had never even intended to touch down in.

My message? It’s easy to knock BA but, as airlines go, it’s not half bad.