Jordan

Exploring Jordan

There’s a widespread sense of unease about travelling to the Middle East but Jordan is not only safe, it’s also spectacular and super friendly to boot. Thinking of heading to the Hashemite Kingdom? Follow TNT’s itineraries – which have been tailored according to taste – and you can suss out the best of this biblical country in no time

 

The Middle East, the headlines tell us, is a deeply troubled place. That maybe the case when it comes to Syria, Yemen, Qatar and co but as far as Jordan is concerned it’s a case of crisis, what crisis?

Visitor numbers may be down in 2017 owing to Jordan’s unenviable location – the Hashemite Kingdom shares borders with Saudi, Syria, Israel and Iraq – but, despite being situated in a rough neighbourhood, is utterly safe.

So much so that there’s a sense of hurt among locals as to why the great British public think that Jordanians – for whom hospitality is second nature – wouldn’t welcome and look after us?

Nothing really bad has ever happened here they tell TNT. Can we say that for the UK? In the aftermath of four terrorist attacks in one month and the Grenfell Tower tragedy, perhaps they have a point…

Bottom line? Jordan isn’t sticking to the script. If you’re looking for trouble, you’ve come to the wrong place…

 

Jordan for adventure seekers

Get wet
Scuba divers will be in seventh heaven: the Red Sea is the Middle East’s premier diving spot and the sites south of Aqaba are crowded with corals and colourful fish. If you’re after something more idle, laze on a beach or by a pool at Aqaba – Jordan’s one and only resort. And of course no visit to Jordan is complete without a dip in the Dead Sea.

Saddle up
As Jordanian experiences go, making like Lawrence of Arabia and riding a camel over cinnamon covered sand in the true heart of Arabia, ranks high up on the ‘must do’ agenda. If you’re only after a taster, you can ride a ‘ship of the desert’ almost anywhere inside Petra. Alternatively, arrange a longer excursion in Wadi Rum where treks can last anything from 30 minutes to three days.

Starry night
Sleeping out under the stars will be one of the defining moments of any holiday in Jordan. The Kingdom is blessed with some outstanding campsites – those at Wadi Mujib, Ajloun Woodland Reserve and Burqu are worth a special mention. That being said TNT’s standouts would have to be Dana (the campsite here is called Rumana and is run by the RSCN, www.wildjordan.com/eco-tourism-section/camping) and Wadi Rum – the grand dame of Middle Eastern camping experiences.

Jordan for film fanatics

Amman
Jordan’s first independent feature film, Captain Abu Raed, was shot in Amman. While the country’s capital can’t compete with Cairo in terms of history, Amman nonetheless has its own unexpected charm and is a great base from which to get to grips with the rest of the Kingdom.

Petra
The famous ‘red rose’ city hewn out of rock has been the dramatic backdrop for several films - step forward Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade and The Mummy Returns. Yet the city was lost to the ancient world until 1812 when a Swiss traveller talked his way into the fiercely guarded site. Visiting Petra is akin to stepping back in time: if you only travel to one place in Jordan, pick Petra.

Wadi Rum, Maan and El Jafr
David Lean’s 1962 epic Lawrence of Arabia was filmed in these three locations. The highlight, however, has to be Wadi Rum – without a doubt one of the most extraordinary desert destinations in the world. Little wonder then that TE Lawrence - aka Lawrence of Arabia - fell in love with the landscape on the spot, describing it as “vast, echoing and God-like.”

Jordan for history buffs

Castle culture
Jordan is crammed with castles, the most impressive of which are those over at Karak and Shobak. The castle at Karak is one of the Middle East’s best preserved and serves as a reminder of the Crusaders’ occupation of the country. However the first castle to be built by the Crusaders was Shobak (formerly called Mons Realis). While admittedly not as commanding as Karak castle, it still rewards a visit and what’s more entrance is absolutely free.

Jerash
Wander the ruins of this well preserved Roman City with its lovely colonnaded streets, impressive temples, oval plaza and theatres. Jerash is also the spot to watch a revival of the Roman sport of chariot racing– epitomised in the 1950s film Ben Hur. For more information, check out www.jerashchariots.com.

Madaba
The laid back market town of Madaba houses the oldest known map of the Middle East made entirely from mosaics (millions of coloured stones). You’ll find the map on the floor of the modern St George’s Church. More mosaics are on offer at Mt Nebo – an easy afternoon excursion from Madaba.


Jordan for indulgence seekers

Dead Sea
It maybe the lowest point on earth but, when it comes to pampering, this place serves up only highs. Smother yourself in the famous black mud or stretch out for one of the luxurious treatments at the Movenpick’s Zara Spa (www.movenpick.com/en/middle-east/jordan/amman/resort-dead-sea/) or Kempinski’s Ishtar Spa (www.kempinski.com/en/dead-sea/hotel-ishtar/luxury-spa/) and let the therapists get their hands dirty for you.

Hammamat Ma’in
People have been flocking to the mineral springs of Hammamat Ma’in since the days of Rome and rightly so” a bath in the hot freshwater springs of Hammamat Ma’in is a fantastic way to spend a day.

Petra
After a day spent exploring Jordan’s Lost City, soothe away any aches and pains by having a hamman (Turkish bath). Submit to a steam, sweat, scrub and massage by a ‘hamami’ and trust TNT when we say: you’ll leave relaxed, rebalanced and ready to brave the 800 step climb to the Monastery the next morning.

Jordan for foodies

Amman
Jordan’s capital has an excellent eating out scene so prime your stomach for one hell of a feast. Outstanding spots include Abu Ahmad Orient Restaurant (3522520), Tannoureen (info@tannoureen.net) and the fabulous Fakhr el Din (www.fakhreldin.com). Meanwhile sweet toothed tourists are amply catered for: sweet shops and stalls abound with shelves positively groaning under the weight of sweetmeats.

Madaba
The compact Christian town of Madaba is famed for its Byzantine mosaics, but it also boasts one of Jordan’s best restaurants in the shape of the atmospheric Haret Jdoudna (www.haretjdoudna.com/). Set inside one of Madaba’s restored old houses, the Arabic grub served up here is a cut above the average. Diners can choose to sit inside, or – weather permitting – outside in the pleasant courtyard.

Petra
If you want to learn how to make a mezze, Petra Kitchen (www.petrakitchen.com/) is where it’s at. At this nightly cookery course – the brainchild of Texan, Wendy Botham – you can get up to your elbows in staples such as fattoush, falafel, triangles of pastry called sambousek, tabbouleh and toasted pita bread. Afterwards you and your fellow chefs get to sit down and feast on the mezze spread you’ve made. Result!

Jordan for nature lovers

Azraq Wetland Reserve
This is Jordan’s prime bird watching location so keep your eyes peeled for the chance to see the Sinai Rosefinch (Jordan’s national bird), Desert Lark, Desert Wheatear, Hoopoe Lark, Temmink’s Horned Lark and the Trumpet Finch. If you’re visiting during winter, watch out for Cranes and Imperial Eagles.

Mujib Nature Reserve
At 410m below sea level, Jordan’s ‘Grand Canyon’ is the lowest altitude nature reserve in the world. The reserve extends to the Karak mountains in the north and Madaba mountains in the south, reaching 900m above sea level in some places.

Dana Nature Reserve
Dana’s physical assets are unrivalled. Rocky slopes, wooded highlands, sand dunes and stony deserts are all here for the taking. Regardless of whether you spend a day in Dana or a week, the difficulty lies in leaving. There are some lovely relaxing village walks to enjoy, or – if you’re feeling more active – hardcore hiking opportunities.

Jordan shortcuts

Read last week's post and made the decision to travel to Jordan? Congratulations! You’ve made the right choice. Only now that you have arrived, you’re wondering exactly where to go and what to do... Fret not as I've done the legwork for you. Follow my itineraries – which have been tailored according to taste and time – and you can suss out the best of this biblical country in no time.

Jordan for adventure seekers

Saddle up
As Jordanian experiences go, making like Lawrence of Arabia and riding a camel over cinnamon covered sand in the true heart of Arabia, ranks high up on the ‘must do’ agenda. If you’re only after a taster, you can ride a ‘ship of the desert’ almost anywhere inside Petra. Alternatively, arrange a longer excursion in Wadi Rum where treks can take anything from 30 minutes to three days!

Get wet
Budding Jacques Cousteaus will be in their element; the mighty Red Sea is the Middle East’s premier diving spot and the sites south of Aqaba are crowded with corals and colourful fish. If you’re after something more idle, laze on a beach or by a pool at Aqaba – Jordan’s one and only resort. And of course no visit to Jordan is complete without a dip in the Dead Sea.

Starry night
Sleeping out under the stars will be one of the defining moments of any holiday in Jordan. The Kingdom is blessed with some outstanding campsites – those at Wadi Mujib, Ajloun Woodland Reserve and Burqu are worth special mention. Despite this, my top two would have to be Dana (the campsite here is called Rumana and is run by the RSCN) and Wadi Rum – the grand dame of Middle Eastern camping experiences.

Jordan for film fanatics

Amman
Jordan’s first independent feature film, Captain Abu Raed, was shot in Amman. While the country’s capital can’t compete with Cairo and Damascus in terms of history, Amman nonetheless has its own unexpected charm and is a great base from which to get to grips with the rest of the Kingdom.

Petra
The famous ‘red rose’ city hewn out of rock has been the dramatic backdrop for several films including Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade and The Mummy Returns. Yet the city was lost to the ancient world until 1812 when a Swiss traveller talked his way into the fiercely guarded site. Visiting Petra is akin to stepping back in time; if you only travel to one place in Jordan, pick Petra.

Wadi Rum, Maan and El Jafr
David Lean’s 1962 epic Lawrence of Arabia was filmed in these three locations. The standout, however, has to be Wadi Rum – without a doubt one of the most extraordinary desert destinations in the world. TE Lawrence fell in love with the landscape on the spot, describing it as ‘vast, echoing and God-like’.

Jordan for foodies

Amman
mman has an excellent eating out scene so junk the diet and prime your stomach for one hell of a feast. Outstanding eateries include Abu Ahamad Orient Restaurant, Tannoureen and the fabulous Fakhr el Din. Meanwhile sweet toothed tourists are amply catered for; sweet shops and stalls abound with shelves positively groaning under the weight of sweetmeats.

Madaba
The compact Christian town of Madaba is famed for its Byzantine mosaics, but it also boasts one of Jordan’s best restaurants in the shape of the atmospheric Haret Jdoudna (324 8650). Set inside one of Madaba’s restored old houses, the Arabic grub served up here is a cut above the average. Diners can choose to sit inside, or – if the weather permits – outside in the pleasant courtyard.

Petra If you want to learn how to make a mezze, Petra’s Kitchen (3 215 6665/www.petramoon.com) is where it’s at. At this nightly cookery course – the brainchild of Texan Wendy Botham – you can get up to your elbows in staples such as fattoush, falafel, triangles of pastry called sambousek, tabbouleh and toasted pita bread. After two hours of hard labour, comes the icing on the cake; you and your fellow aspirant chefs get to sit down and feast on the mezze spread you’ve made.

Jordan for history buffs

Castle culture
Jordan is crammed with castles, arguably the most impressive of which are those over at Karak and Shobak. The castle at Karak is one of the Middle East’s best preserved and serves as a reminder of the Crusaders’ occupation of the country. However the first castle to be built by the Crusaders was Shobak (formerly called Mons Realis). While admittedly not as commanding as Karak castle, it still repays a visit and entrance is free.

Jerash
Wander the ruins of this well preserved Roman City with its lovely colonnaded streets, impressive temples, oval plaza and theatres. Jerash is also the spot to watch a revival of the Roman sport of chariot racing  – epitomised in the 1950s film Ben Hur. For more information, check out www.jerashchariots.com.

Madaba
The laid back market town of Madaba houses the oldest known map of the Middle East made entirely from mosaics (millions of coloured stones). You’ll find the map on the floor of the modern St George’s Church. More mosaics are on offer at Mt Nebo – an easy afternoon excursion from Madaba.

Jordan for indulgence seekers

Dead Sea
It maybe the lowest point on earth, but when it comes to pampering this place serves up only highs. Smother yourself in the famous black mud or stretch out for one of the luxurious treatments at the Movenpick’s Zara Spa or Kempinski’s Anantara and let the therapists get their hands dirty for you.

Hammamat Ma’in
People have been flocking to the mineral springs of Hammamat Ma’in since the days of Rome and for good reason; a bath in the hot freshwater springs of Hammamat Ma’in makes for a wonderfully relaxing way to spend a day.

Petra
After a day spent exploring Jordan’s Lost City, soothe away any aches and pains by having a hamman (Turkish bath). Submit to a steam, sweat, scrub and massage by a ‘hamami’ and trust me; you’ll leave relaxed, rebalanced and ready to brave the 800 step climb to the Monastery the next morning.

Jordan for nature lovers

Azraq Wetland Reserve
This is Jordan’s prime bird watching location so keep your eyes open for the chance to see the Sinai Rosefinch (Jordan’s national bird), Desert Lark, Desert Wheatear, Hoopoe Lark, Temmink’s Horned Lark and the Trumpet Finch. If you’re visiting during winter, watch out for Cranes and Imperial Eagles.

Mujib Nature Reserve
At410m below sea level, Jordan’s ‘Grand Canyon’ is the lowest altitude nature reserve in the world. The reserve extends to the Karak mountains in the north and Madaba mountains in the south, reaching 900m above sea level in some places.

Dana Nature Reserve
Dana’s physical assets are unrivalled. Rocky slopes, wooded highlands, sand dunes and stony deserts are all here for the taking. Regardless of whether you spend a day in Dana or a week, the difficulty lies in leaving. There are some lovely relaxing village walks to enjoy, or – if you’re feeling more active – hardcore hiking opportunities.

Just Jordan

2012 marks the 200-year anniversary of Petra - Jordan's main tourism site - plus Johann the 50th anniversary of the release of director David Lean’s acclaimed movie Lawrence of Arabia. Travelling to the Hashemite Kingdom? KH tells you how to get the most out of Jordan regardless of whether you have one week or infinitely longer….

Jordan in one week
Chances are that you’re introduction to Jordan will be the capital, Amman. While it’s much more of a modern city than its ancient Arab neighbours Damascus, Cairo, Aleppo et al, Amman has its own delights – namely the lively downtown district with its bustling souks and sheesha joints. Throw into the mix Roman ruins and the wealthy residential districts of western Amman – home to chic bars and hip restaurants – and you’ve got a convenient base from which to explore the rest of the country.

After a day or so in Amman, consider taking a day trip to the ancient ruins at Jerash and/or Madaba where you can marvel at mosaics from the Byzantine era. From Madaba, make for the Dead Sea – stopping off enroute at the Dead Sea Panorama for some stunning views and photo opportunities. Spend the afternoon bobbing about (the high salt content makes it impossible to swim yet alone sink) like a human cork at the lowest point on earth, and if you’re feeling flush, splurge on a night at the Dead Sea Movenpick Resort. This sumptuous five star hotel and resort has been designed to reflect Jordan’s cultural heritage owing to details like white washed walls and stone floors – making it a great retreat for travellers who value authenticity and luxury.

From the Dead Sea, your next destination should be Dana Nature Reserve - the Royal Society of Conservation of Nature’s (RSCN) flagship eco project. Hiking options range from the easy to the challenging, and pleasingly all guides and rangers are locals that have been trained and employed by the RSCN.

When you’re done with Dana, push on to Petra: it’s a cliché we know, but the ancient Nabatean city is truly awe inspiring. The fabled site could keep you contented for days so don’t skimp on time; be sure to factor in a minimum of two full days.

On a one week itinerary, you probably won’t have time to explore further afield. On your way back to Amman’s Queen Alia airport, allow a couple of hours to visit Karak – home to Jordan’s best preserved Crusader Castle – and Jesus’ baptism site at Bethany Beyond the Jordan.

Jordan in two weeks
Two weeks is the optimum amount of time in which to properly get to grips with the gem that is Jordan. When Amman, gets too much head north to Jerash and beyond to the excellent RSCN run Ajlun Nature Reserve and the fairytale Islamic castle of Qala’át ar Rabad. Looping back to Amman, prepare to follow the same itinerary down to the Dead Sea as above, but allow for extra stop offs such as at Mt Nebo, where Moses is said to have died, and Mukawir; home to Herod’s Castle. Following a float in the Dead Sea, sign up for more adventure at the Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve where you can splash up the siq trail or, for real adrenaline seekers, engage in some hardcore hiking courtesy of the Malaqi Trail.

There’s more hiking to be had at Dana Nature Reserve before arriving at what is arguably Jordan’s piece de resistance, Petra. On a two week trip, you can afford to allocate extra hours here so buy the two day, if not, three day pass – you’ll be pleased you did. Reward aching limbs by having a hamman; the Turkish Bath at Taybet Zaman – the award winning upmarket hotel that recreates the atmosphere of a 19th century Ottoman village – gets our vote.

Continue south from Petra, your next destination du jour should be Wadi Rum – the classic desert landscape that so captivated TE Lawrence, or as TE himself put it: ‘this land can cast a spell which no temperate climate can match.’ To get a real feel for the desert, spend a night or two in a Bedouin camp - basically a long, low tent woven out of goat’s hair. What you do at Wadi is up to you…. there’s rock climbing, camel riding and superb hiking opportunities for the active, while the more idle can pass the time drinking endless cups of sweet tea, chatting to the local Bedouin or simply settle for watching the sun set slowly over the cinnamon coloured sand.

When you’ve had your fill of the desert, wander west and explore the underwater world at Aqaba. Jordan’s only resort is believed to offer some of the best diving in the world and anyone wanting to take the plunge will be rewarded with a rainbow of colourful sea life. But of course if you prefer a traditional sand, sea and sun holiday, then there are pristine beaches to laze on and start planning your return. Trust us, you’ll be back for Jordan is like coffee; it gets into your bloodstream, picks you up and leaves you wanting more…

Jordan in a month
If you’re travelling for more than a fortnight (lucky you), you can follow the same route as the two week travel plan, only at a more leisurely pace. You’ll also have time to explore the Eastern Desert and Azraq Oasis – the desert hideout of Lawrence of Arabia. Highlights include the desert castles of Qasr Kharana and Qusayr Amra, while the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve is particularly popular with children.