London calling: Kaye Holland

Ahead of the two year anniversary of the Olympic Games, London based journalist and co-founder of Talk of the Town (a company specialising in entertaining tours of the capital), Kaye Holland, opens her little black book to reveal the best places to eat, shop and play in London Town

Where are you from?
I was born in Watford - the hometown of George Michael and erm, Geri Halliwell. Travel bible Lonely Planet once labelled Watford as the "kind of town that makes you want to travel." They weren't wrong: I escaped as soon as I turned 18 and spent my 20s living and working overseas in the UAE, Cayman Islands and China. But while Watford is a gritty city (you could never describe it as pretty), it always lures me back. I still have friends and family living in WD and if I've got a free Saturday and my beloved Watford FC are playing at home, you'll usually find me at Vicarage Road stadium cheering on the Golden boys.

What's the first thing you do when you get to London?
Grab a Flat White - I am a complete caffeine addict. Luckily for me, despite the fact that London is traditionally renowned for tea drinkers, the friendly bubble of coffee perkingcan now be heard all across the capital. Bar Italia is a Soho institution that has witnessed many fascinating glimpses of passing theatrical life. Situated opposite Ronnie Scotts, it's loved as much for the stories it could tell, as it is for its authentic Italian coffee. Caravan in the new Kings Cross development is another favourite and I love the newly opened Soho Grind - the sister to Shoreditch Grind (an East London institution). These guys also serve booze if you want something a little stronger than coffee beans...

What is your favourite hangout?
Oh wow - that's an impossible question! It largely depends on which side of the river I'm on and also the season. Right now it's summer and the sun is (unusually for London) out so I'm loving the rooftop terrace at One New Change. Confession time: I'm part of their 'Style council' so have an affiliation with One New Change but even if I didn't, I would still head up to the terrace which serves up spectacular views of the London skyline: expect to see The Shard, St Paul's Cathedral, London Eye and Tate Modern to name but a few London landmarks. You'll also find the fabulous Madison there. The restaurant gets rave reviews for its generously portionedBritish fare, but I prefer the more fun tapas bar where the emphasis is on small plates that lend well to sharing with friends (the sesame flat breads are to die for). Of course you can just drink here: top notch cocktails include the cheekily named 'Hot bitch martini' but in such stunning surroundings, it would be criminal not to try the Thai Chi– a champagne cocktail with cucumber, ginger, apple juice, lemon juice, vodka and a Lanson champagne top - right?!

What is your favourite restaurant?
I have to say that I am not very faithful when it comes to restaurants and rarely return to the same restaurant twice. I'm always forcing my friends to schlepp across town andtry the latest new opening; I'm sure I drive them bonkers. That said I do have a soft spot for Jeremy King and Chris Corbin's restaurants: their the dynamic duo responsible for The Wolseley, The Delaunay, Brasserie Zedel and the just opened Fischer's in Marylebone- the celeb hang out du jour. Closer to home (I’m a Harrow girl), I love Incanto - a wonderful Italian restaurant situated on the summit of Harrow on the Hill in what was once a post office. For lunch on the run in central London, I'll head to tibits - a Swiss vegetarian restaurant. Located in the heart of Heddon Street, it's a refuge from the madness of Regent Street and the food from head chef, Brian Mesmain, is incredible. I’m a veggie but even my most carnivorous friends agree! The colourful interior by the Designers Guild – one of the foremost luxury home furnishings brands in the world – is a further treat.

What was the last exhibition you saw in London?
That would be Matisse: the Cut-Outs at the Tate Modern. I’m not really an art aficionado (I wish I was but alas it’s a taste I’ve yet to acquire) but John (one of Talk of the Town’s co-founders and tour guides) dragged me along and I’m glad he did. The Cut Outs is an exhibition of the colour-saturated works Matisse made by cutting out shapes from pre-painted sheets of paper during the last 17 years of his life and the sensual shapes and vibrant colours makes for a visual feast. The exhibition runs until 7 September if any readers are interested...

What was the last gig you saw in London?
I went to Wireless Festival in Finsbury Park a few weeks back and had a blast. Traditionally I’ve not been a fan of festivals in the UK - who wants to spend two hours queuing for a beer or sleeping in a soggy field with a few thousand fellow festival goers, all of whom you can be sure will want to use the 10 toilets at exactly the same time the next morning? - but Wireless was a great day out. John Newman, Outkast (their first UK appearance in 13 years), 80s sensations Salt-N-Pepa, Sean Paul and Clean Bandit all performed before the headline act - Hawaiian crooner, Bruno Mars - took to the main stage for a huge performance. On the theatre front, I saw All My Sons at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre (a steeply raked auditorium slap bang in the middle of one of the capital’s prettiest parks). Arthur Miller’s breakthrough play about a family confronting the cost of capitalism remains just as relevant today as it did when it was written nearly 70 years ago.

What is your earliest London memory?
I remember travelling into town with my Mum, Dad and brother one January - I must have been about six. We went to Trafalgar Square which is famous for the hordes of pigeons that frequent the area. Mum had told me that the pigeons land on your head and I didn’t like the sound of that so insisted on taking my cycling helmetup on the train and wearing it as "protection" from the pigeons. After we’d ticked off Trafalgar Square, we went to watch the Chinese New Year celebrations in China Town. I loved watching the lively parade and the acrobatics, traditional dance, theatre and song recitals and trying the traditional food but then disaster stuck... We lost my younger brother in the crowd... My parents went into a blind panic, but thankfully we FINALLY found him standing next to a policeman. Later, during our teenage years, when Keith (my brother) was behaving like Harry Enfield’s creation 'Kevin the Teenager’, I wished we hadn’t...

What have you discovered recently in London? Brixton - I kid you not. Kensington and Chelsea has a certain picturesque charm and East London – in the aftermath of the Olympic Games – isn’t without its appeal, but when all is said and done they are… well London lite. A little bit vanilla, if you like. If you want to see the real London – the capital in all its magical multicultural glory – Brixton is where it’s at. David Bowie was born in Brixton, former Prime Minister John Major grew up there and singer La Roux still lives in the area where West Indian food stalls sit beside chi chi bars. And despite the fact that Foxtons (the estate agent we all all love to loathe) has opened a branch in Brixton and there’s a Waitrose on its way, the area’s strong sense of community remains intact.

What would you do if you were Mayor for the day? That’s easy. I’d make the London Underground run 24/7 or at least until a much more civilised 2 or 3am. This would eliminate the need to make a mad dash across town for the last tube, endure a long journey on a battered, beer soaked night bus or an expensive cab ride home. London is no Cinderella: it doesn’t shut down, when the clock strikes midnight. Neither should the tube.

What are your top tips for tourists? Try not to succumb to the self imposed yet inescapable pressure of the ‘checklist’. You know - the one that demands you visit every site, every museum, every monument that you’re supposed to. Adjust your expectations and in doing so you’ll discover places - little streets, small independent shops - that you might not otherwise had done because you’d have been so busy trying to see everything you thought you had to. On a practical note if you’re travelling around by tube, avoid doing so before 9.30am and between the hours of 4-7pm - you’ll pay a premium during these hours and spend the entire journey squashed under sweaty armpits. Lastly - shameless self promotion alert - sign up for a Talk of the Towntour!

Where would you like to stay? I’m all about Airbnb - the San Francisco online marketplace which allows people to rent their homes or rooms to short-term visitors. It’s a characterful, affordable alternative to staying in an overpriced bland, beige hotel room. More than that, Airbnb can also help you meet Londoners and bring you closer to the local culture. I use Airbnb when I travel and it’s led to some great conversations and experiences. However if you are a hotel person, I’d recommend the luxurious Rosewood London. It’s not cheap (prices are as high as the Shard) but if you’re going to make the trip of a lifetime, you might as well do it in style! The hotel (which opened in October 2013) is housed in a beautiful 1914 Belle Epoque building that was once the headquarters of Pearl Assurance. Every conceivable luxury and comfort has been thought of - it really is impossible to exaggerate the glories of this place.

What is your guilty London pleasure?Selfridges. I’ll pop in for five minutes and five hours later I’m still there (this can happen). And preposterously priced cocktails with the girls in a hotel bar: right now Londoners are hanging out in hotels thanks to a slew of red hot and happening new openings such as Firmdale’s Ham Yard Hotel and Andre Balazs’s Chiltern Firehouse.

Thanks Kaye! To book a tour with Talk of the Town, click here

Theatre review: Hobson's Choice

Hobson’s Choice - a comedy about a bombastic cobbler - may have been written back in 1916 (and set in Salford circa 1880) but Nadia Fall’s production of Harold Brighouse’s classic feels fabulously fresh.

Fall has transposed the action to the swinging sixties as the costumes (think bobs and mini skirts) and music (expect plenty of Gerry and the Pacemakers)  attest and it works. Wonderfully so.

Mark Benton’s is excellent as the Lear-esque Henry Hobson who is totally dependent on his three unmarried daughters. Even at his most tyrannical you can’t help but smile at the proud proprietor’s drunken renditions of Frank Sinatra’s My Life and sympathise when he succumbs to full blown alcoholism.

But it’s Jodie McNee as the plain speaking eldest daughter, Maggie, who is the play’s real star. McNee captures Maggie’s insightfulness - she spots the true potential of Willie Mossop (Hobson’s timid, underpaid apprentice) - and ruthlessness as sets about marrying a reluctant Willie, telling him: “When I make arrangements, my lad, they’re not made for upsetting.”

Yet McNee also shows that under the bristle,  Maggie is as vulnerable as they come. This is arguably best demonstrated in the wedding night scene when rather than being brusque, McNee’s Maggie comes across as bashful: she is just as shy as Willie (Karl Davies) who positively trembles in his boots about the prospect of making love to Maggie on their wedding night.

Davies is delightful as the lowly boot-maker who, under his wife's guidance, grows in confidence to become a man of independent means.

There are two comedic cameos  from Richard Syms, as Hobson’s employee Tubby, and Robin Bowerman as Hobson’s long-suffering physician - but it’s the genuine love and respect that develops between Maggie and Willie that will warm you even if (given that the play is staged in the open air environs of Regent’s Park) the weather won’t.

Regardless Brigson’s play, which next year will celebrate its 100 anniversary, has weathered well. To the audiences of today the issues of class division and women’s rights remain prevalent.

Hobson’s Choice, until 12 July (www.openairtheatre.com)

Theatre Review: All My Sons At Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre

Read Kaye Holland’s review of Regent’s Park Open Theatre’s revival of All My Sons – Arthur Miller’s first hit

For the quintessential British summer evening, look no further than the award winning Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre – now in its 82nd season. We can’t guarantee it won’t rain (this is England) but the setting – a steeply raked auditorium with a 1,240 seating capacity slap bang in the middle of one of the capital’s prettiest parks – is spellbinding.

So too is Timothy Sheader’s adaptation of Arthur Miller’s All My Sons. Set in August 1947, in mid-west America, All My Sons –like so many of Miller’s plays – explores the themes of social responsibility and the downfall, not of a noble figure, but of the common man.  

The man in question is 61-year-old Joe Keller (Tom Mannion) –  a factory owner who knowingly let damaged aircraft engine parts leave his premises during the war, leading to the death of 21 American pilots, because he wanted to make a quick buck.

Joe allowed his deputy, Steve Deever, to take the wrap leaving him free to enjoy family life and prosperity. Mannion exudes such cheerful backyard bonhomie that you can’t help but be drawn to the patriarch, at least in the first act. Mannion makes it clear that Keller cherishes his family above all else and it was putting his family first (“I’m in business… I’m a man… I did it for you…” ) that caused Keller to sell thedefective cylinder heads to the American air-force.

This dichotomy is emphasised in Lizzie Clachan’s set design: a façade of an American family home, adorned with a gigantic advert of an impossibly squeaky clean family.

And so it proves in the second act when, as darkness falls in the park, Joe is forced to finally acknowledge his guilt and self deceit:  “they were all my sons.”

The supporting performances are no less astonishing. Brid Brennan shines as the brittle Kate, Joe’s wife, who stubbornly clings to the belief that her eldest son Larry – a wartime air-force pilot reported as missing in action – is still alive.  And Charles Aitken is compelling as Chris – the Keller’s idealistic, surviving son. There’s praise too for Amy Nuttall (of Downtown Abbeyfame) who shines as Chris’ wholesome yet realistic sweetheart, Ann.

Yet the real star is the late, great Arthur Miller whose breakthrough play about a family confronting the cost of capitalism remains just as relevant today as it did when it was written nearly 70 years ago. Chris’ cry –  “What kind of man are you?” – to his Father at the climax of this morality tale, as the ghosts of the 21 dead air men circle the stage, send shivers down the spine and provokes some serious soul searching.

All My Sons runs at the Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre until 7 June 2014.

Review: To Kill A Mockingbird

For the quintessential British summer evening, look no further than the award winning Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre – now in its 81st season. We can’t guarantee it won’t rain (this is England) and this year, temperatures are unseasonably chilly but the setting – a steeply raked auditorium with a 1,240 seating capacity slap bang in the middle of one of the capital’s prettiest parks – is simply magical.

So too is Christopher Sergel’s adaptation of To Kill A Mockingbird – a coming of age tale which sees lawyer Atticus Finch, defend a black man falsely charged with the rape of a white girl in the Deep South of the thirties.

To Kill A Mockingbird at Regents Park Open Air Theatre (Photo: Johan Persson)

Timothy Sheader’s production of Harper Lee’s pulitzer prize winning novel is wonderfully staged: chalk, childlike, drawings on the ground reveal the world of six year old Scout, her older brother Jem and their imaginative friend Dill as they struggle to accept that their small Alabama town is steeped in prejudice, violence and hypocrisy.

Hollywood headliner Robert Sean Leonard (he of House and Dead Poet Society fame) is a revelation as the linen suited lawyer, Atticus Finch. Leonard delivers his lines quietly but with conviction, achieving the impossible: for two and three quarter hours, he manages to make you forget Gregory Peck’s star performance in the 1962 film. Only the hardest of hearts would fail to moved by his summation, against the silhouette of a US flag, during the crucial second act courtroom scene.

Richie Campbell as Tom Robinson. Photo: Johan Persson

Leonard is ably supported by Richie Campbell as the real mockingbird in the case, Tom Robison, whose only crime is to feel sorry for a white girl and Simon Gregor as a despicably evil Bob Ewell. Credit must also go to the adult ensemble cast who pop up among the audience to read passages of narrative from the novel, reinforcing the fact that this is a story that resounds with us all.

Nonetheless it’s the child actors, which on the night I attended were played with warmth and humour by Eleanor Worthington Cox (Scout), Callum Henderson (Jem) and Sebastian Clifford (Dill), that steal the show. Their chemistry and charisma combine to remind us that the issues of racial prejudice and differences between the generations, remain just as prevalent today.

To Kill A Mockingbird at Regents Park Open Air Theatre (Photo: Johan Persson)

To Kill A Mockingbird runs until 15 Jun at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre, Inner Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1. Nearest tube: Baker Street (www.openairtheatre.com)

Let’s go outside: al fresco London

Heading to the capital this summer, to celebrate the anniversary of the 2012 Olympic Games? We can’t guarantee it won’t rain (this is England) but if and when it does stop bucketing down, be ready to take London drinking, eating and even theatre watching outside. KH gives you the low-down on five fabulous al fresco options – regardless of which side of the river you’re on…

CENTRAL

Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre

For the quintessential British summer evening, look no further than the award winning Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre – now in its 80th season. The setting – a steeply raked auditorium with a 1,240 seating capacity slap bang in the middle of one of the capital’s prettiest parks – is simply magical.

So too is Christopher Sergel’s adaptation of To Kill A Mockingbird – a coming of age tale which sees lawyer Atticus Finch, defend a black man falsely charged with the rape of a white girl in the Deep South of the thirties.

Hollywood headliner Robert Sean Leonard (he of House and Dead Poet Society fame) is a revelation as the linen suited lawyer, Atticus Finch. Leonard delivers his lines quietly but with conviction, achieving the impossible: for two and three quarter hours, he manages to make you forget Gregory Peck’s star performance in the 1962 film.

Picnics (and prosecco) are permitted in the park but if packing up your own sounds like too much effort, there’s a not extortionate barbecue and buffet available before all evening performances. Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre, Inner Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1. Nearest tube: Baker Street (020 7907 7071; www.openairtheatre.com/)

EAST

Madison at One New Change

There can’t be many – if any – better rooftop terraces than this, in town. Situated on the top of One New Change (a stunning glass shopping centre designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect, Jean Nouvel) overlooking the iconic St Paul’s Cathedral, the glorious views of the London skylinemake for a spectacular experience. Expect to see The Shard, London Eye and Tate Modern to name but a few London landmarks.

The food also elates: there’s a formal restaurant serving generously portionedBritish fare plus the more fun tapas bar: think small plates that lend well to sharing with friends. I tried the baby piedmontese peppers (£7) and Welsh rarebit fritters (£6) and a lovely lemon posset (£6) but you can just drink here. Top notch cocktails include the cheekily named ‘Hot Bitch Martini’ (£9), Citrus Mojito (£9) and New York Sour (£8) but in such stunning surroundings, it seems a shame not to try the Thai Chi (£10) – a champagne cocktail with cucumber, ginger, apple juice, lemon juice, vodka and a Lanson champagne top. If Don Draper was in town, this is where he would head. Madison, One New Change, Rooftop terrace, One New Change, St Paul’s, EC4. Nearest tube: St Paul’s (0208 305 3088; www.madisonlondon.net)

WEST The Mall Tavern

When the sun has got its hat on, The Mall Tavern – a gorgeous gastro pub in chi chi Notting Hill – is our destination of choice for al fresco dining.

The kitchen doesn’t put a foot wrong: expect sensational starters such as mushroom and chestnut pate (£5.50) mopped up with fresh warm soda bead (£1.50), a big tasting beetroot, whipped goats’ cheese and hazelnut salad (£7) and pork pie with sweet and sour vegetables (£6.50). Generously portioned mains include macaroni cheese with smoked bacon (£9.50) – comfort food heaven – and ‘Portabella Road’ pie with creamed onions and sage (£13), while sides like purple sprouting brocolli and lover’s chips are worth the extra £4. For dessert, there’s a nod to nostalgia: don’t miss the artic rolls (fantastic sounding flavours include lamington, after eight and peanut butter and jelly) and the to-die-for salted caramel chocolate rolos. Service is attentive and friendly without being fussy but it’s the secret garden – with marble tables, classic pub ashtrays and flowers in special Royal Cups – that’s the real delight. A hidden gem in the heart of Notting Hill, go for a leisurely lunch, a candlelit dinner or even just a drink (there’s a killer cocktail list) but do go. 71 – 73 Palace Gardens Terrace, W8. Nearest tube: Notting Hill (020 7229 3374; www.themalltavern.com)

NORTH Hampstead Heath Ponds

On a hot summer’s day – yes, yes this may sound a tad optimistic but I like to look on the bright side – an open air swim is just what the doctor ordered. London might be lacking in beaches, but who needs all that messy sand anyway? There are open air pools and lidos all over London, but I love Hampstead Heath Ponds. As well as a mixed pond (close to Hampstead/Belsize Park), Hampstead has separate ponds for men and women (on the Highgate side). With the anniversary of London Olympics just around the corner, isn’t it time you revved up your own fitness routine and dived right in? Afterwards you can your dose of Vitamin D on the grassy banks or undo all the good work by heading to Haverstock Hill – home to Marine Ices aka London’s best ice cream shop – for a tub (or two) of the cold stuff. We can recommend the Caribbean coconut and maple walnut.

Hampstead Heath Ponds, Hampstead Heath, NW3. Nearest tube: Kentish Town, then by bus (020 7485 3873; http://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/Corporation/LGNL_Services/Environment_and_planning/Parks_and_open_spaces/Hampstead_Heath/Swimming.htm) Marine Ices, 8 Haverstock Hill, NW3. Nearest tube: Chalk Farm (020 7482 9003; www.marineices.co.uk)

SOUTH Kew the Movies

Mad about movies? The place to see them this September is at Kew the Movies – when the world famous Kew Gardens will host a giant open air cinema. Screenings take place in two magical botanical locations. At Kew Gardens, the big screen sits majestically against the backdrop of the iconic Kew Palace. At Wakehurst, Kew’s West Sussex country estate, the cinema is set on the perfectly manicured Croquet and Mansion lawns. Screenings – none of which need any introduction – include Dirty Dancing, The Rocky Horror Picture Show, Les Miserables, Cinema Paradiso and Raiders of the Lost Ark.  Gates will open at 6.30pm, with the films starting at 7.30pm. Kew Gardens, Royal Botanic Gardens, Richmond, TW9 3AB Tube: Kew Gardens (www.kew.org)