San Diego

The year that was

It’s been a busy year and it’s time to take stock. Here travel writer and enthusiast, Kaye Holland, shares her 2013 holiday highlights

Las Vegas
Las Vegas – the desert town that exploded from a dusty backwater into a fast moving global playground back in the 1930s – has gone decidedly upmarket in 2013. Sure the never ending buffets, free flowing drinks and lens friendly reproductions of the Egyptian Pyramids, Eiffel Tower et al are all still present and correct. But Sin City is also revelling in the luxurious side of life thanks to a new new breed of hip hotels (Aria anyone?), fine dining – here’s looking at your Hakkasan – designer cocktails and great golf. The anything can happen playground is also much easier to reach these days: there are direct flights to the flashy new McCarran International Airport, only a stone’s throw away from the bright lights of the Las Vegas strip. Just remember: what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas.

Palm Springs
Staying in North America, Palm Springs (the hangout of the Rat Pack back in the 60s and 70s) proved to be a travel highlight in 2013 – the 75th anniversary of the decadent, desert oasis. Surrounded by the stunning San Jacinto and Santa Rosa mountains, Palm Springs stands for everything I love: hot weather, fabulous sun tanned bodies and some of the some of the swankiest hotels and bars on the planet. No trip to Palm Springs would be complete without seeing the homes of the King of Cool and his Rat Pack cronies and taking the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway to the summit of San Jacinto. But the real reason you flock to Palm Springs is to drink designer cocktails and dance to fresh DJ spun tunes around kidney shaped pools until the wee hours. Sure, Palm Springs won’t suit everyone – you either get it or you don’t. But if you do, like me, you can’t wait to return.

Temecula
Temecula Valley may not have previously figured on your mental map -  the likes of LA, Anaheim and San Diego typically top the SoCal sightseeing agenda – but when you get there, it’s hard to see why not. Only 90 miles southeast of LA and 60 miles north of San Diego, Temecula is Southern California’s premier wine growing region and a good place to disappear for a long, lazy weekend. You’ll find around 40 wineries free of crowds and mercifully, without Napa’s perturbing price tags - after all, the last person you want to be chatting to on your hols, is your bank manager. Yet while vines and wines do dominate proceedings, Temecula Valley  isn’t just for oenophiles. Much of Temecula’s appeal lies in its heart stoppingly pretty old town – a beguiling place for camera clad tourists owing to its wooden boardwalks and unique shops.With so much on offer, it can only be a matter of time before Temecula becomes the next Napa so explore, enjoy and get there before everybody else does.

Rio de Janeiro
Rio has always been hot (in every sense of the word) but in 2013, the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvellous City) positively sizzled. Pope Francis chose Rio for his first overseas tour in July 2013 while the world’s best footballers will be arriving in Rio in 2014, followed by the Olympic flame in 2016. Despite staying out dancing until dawn in the dance halls of Lapa (Cariocas - aka Rio residents - know how to party and not just when Carnaval rolls round) I returned home energised and happy, convinced that there is no more enticing place on the planet than Rio de Janeiro. This is an intoxicating city of sun, samba, football, food, beaches and Bossa Nova, that truly justifies every word of the hype. And with interest (and prices) in Rio only set to rocket following the FIFA 2014 World Cup and 2016 Olympics, now is a great time to go. Get it while it’s hot.

The Iguacu Falls
Confession time: I very nearly didn’t make it to the Iguacu Falls – being too busy topping up the tan on Rio’s Copacabana Beach, but boy am I glad I did. The crashing cascades occupying an area more than 80m high and 3km wide have the wow factor and no other water falls in the world can compete. Little wonder then that Eleanor Roosevelt gasped “Poor little Niagara” when she came up close at Iguacu.The 275 falls (shared between Brazil and Argentina) are so bedazzling that it comes as no surprise to learn that Hollywood covets them for one blockbuster after another– scenes from Miami Vice, Mr Magoo, Indiana Jones and theCrystal Skull and The River were all shot here. All told the spotlight will inevitably fall on Sao Paulo and Rio when the Olympic flame arrives in 2016, but do add the Iguacu Falls to any  Brazilian itinerary.

Ilha Grande
Just when I was beginning to think that the whole world had been completely Google mapped and Starbucksified, I stumbled across the Brazilian island of Ilha Grande – a two and hour half bus and boat trip away from Rio. Far quieter and less developed than the rest of the Costa Verde, this pristine car free island is remnant of an older, miraculously unspoiled world. Yet while Ilha Grande may lack the crowds, it most definitely has the character. The island retreat was once a pirate’s lair, then a leper colony and lastly a penitentiary, holding some of Brazil’s most violent criminals. For decades the island’s less than salubrious reputation deterred developers and consequently tourism is still in its infancy. Translation? Avisit – which involves a thrilling boat journey – remains a genuine adventure. There’s little internet access, no roaming phone signal, an absence of automobiles and ATMS, and a refreshing lack of Western hotel chains.

Paraty
Brazil’s Costa Verde coastline has plenty of places to entice travellers who manage to tear themselves away from Rio de Janeiro but, in my mind, peaceful Paraty – particularly the old colonial centre – is the state’s star attraction. The colonial centre’s cobblestone streets (ladies, don’t even think about wearing heels) are closed to cars, making it an enchanting place to amble around. For Paraty isn’t about sightseeing, though museums do abound, but about wandering the backstreets, stopping for a sweet, strong coffee, eating a long, late lunch and, if you’re feeling flush, chillaxing in an elegant old town pousada. Our pick would be Pousada Ouro, whose high profile past guests include Mick Jagger, Jerry Hall and Tom Cruise. After dark, Paraty resembles something of a party town – barely a month goes by without some festival or other, filling the cobblestoned streets - and places such as Paraty 33, in the heart of the historic centre, are pumping on any given night.

Brandenburg
Brandenburg’s big headliner grabber maybe Berlin but the rest of the region has plenty to recommend too – particularly for history buffs – as I discovered in 2013. The state’s small towns, churches and series of low hills serve as a welcome antidote to the hustle and bustle of Berlin’s bewildering array of bars, museums and modern buildings. For me, Potsdam – with its fabulous fountains, follies, palaces and gardens – was a particular standout. Most people associate Potsdam with the aftermath of the Second World War: Potsdam’s Schloss Celcilienhof is where the victorious Allies arrived on 2 August 1945 to work out details of the division of Germany and Europe. But if you’re after a holiday not a history lesson, make a beeline for the buzzing Dutch quarter – teeming as it is with trendy shops and cafes. Or check out charming towns such as Wolfshagen and Wittenberg – both within easy reach of thebright lights of Berlin.

Dubai
People, perhaps understandably given the emirate’s penchant for publicising its outlandish projects, have the wrong idea about Dubai – believing it to be all about  malls and modernity. However scratch beneath the shiny surface and you’ll find another side to the ‘city of gold’. Alongside the skyscrapers like the Burj Al Arab (the self proclaimed seven star hotel,) and the Emirates Towers sit historical sites such as Bastakiaand the creek – arguably the heart beat of Dubai. Here you can watch abras and dhows (traditional Arab sailing boats) weave their way across the water, as they have done for centuries. For further local flavour, factor in a tour of Jumeirah Mosque (Dubai is after all an Islamic state even if it isn’t quite how you’d envisage Arabia) before sauntering through the bustling souks.Bottom line? There’s awful lot to discover about Dubai beyond what you know from the glossy brochures.

Abu Dhabi
Dubai may have been confirmed as the host of the 2020 Expo but isn’t the only UAE city creating a buzz. Abu Dhabi - the country’s capital - is making a name for itself at the Gulf’s cultural hub. Sheikh Khalifa has signed up several star-chitects to oversee a plethora of prestigious projects including theworld’s largest Guggenheim gallery – and the only one in the Arab world – and the first ever branch of the world famous Parisian art museum, The Louvre. But Abu Dhabi isn’t all about art. The more subdued Islamic state is also emerging as a sporting haven thanks to the success of the Formula 1TM Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix – the only twilight race on the F1 calendar. Yet while Abu Dhabi has spent more than US$100 billion on developments and events,  it has managed more successfully than most to modernise itself and remains significantly richer in local colourthan its bling-tastic brother.

What were your 2013 travel highlights? Let us know by posting a comment below!

Make time for Temecula

Superb wine, friendly locals and a countryside paved with natural beauty, Temecula has charm by the bucketload says Kaye Holland

Temecula Valley may not have previously figured on your mental map -  the likes of LA, Anaheim and San Diego typically top the SoCal sightseeing agenda - but when you get there, it’s hard to see why not.

Only 90 miles southeast of LA and 60 miles north of San Diego, Temecula is Southern California’s premier wine growing region and a good place to disappear for a long, lazy weekend. For while Napa - Northern California’s wine country - throngs with Michelin starred eateries (here’s looking at you French Laundry), chi chi boutiques, bizarre architecture and high end wineries, Temecula is quieter and far less developed.

You’ll find around 40 wineries free of crowds and mercifully, without their northern counterparts’ perturbing price tags (the last person you want to be chatting to on your hols, is your bank manager).

I can recommend Wilson Creek Winery where you can quaff an array of sparkling wines including orange mimosa, peach bellini and, my favourite, the celebrated almond champagne. Be warned: you’ll experience a strong urge to splurge on a few bottles. There’s an onsite restaurant if you’re in the mood for food (think hearty sandwiches and salads), which is often served by the warm, hospitable owners Rosie and Gerry, who always have time to talk.

Elsewhere Callaway Vineyard and Winery also rewards a stop off. The name Ely Reeves Callaway is often associated with golf (the success of the 'Big Bertha' golf club made Ely an icon among the Pringle wearing posse),  but it turns out that the entrepreneur  knew a thing or two about wine as well. Visitors can explore the 40 year old Callaway estate through a hosted tasting tour (don’t miss out on  the 1974 white riesling which was served to Queen Elizabeth II during a luncheon in New York City and who, legend has it, enjoyed the variety so much that she asked for a second glass) before soaking up the alcohol with a meal at Meritage. This onsite restaurant specialises in tapas paired with the perfect glass of wine, natch, and unrivalled views of Callaway’s rolling vineyards.

Yet while vines and wines do dominate proceedings, Temecula Valley  isn’t just for oenophiles. Much of Temecula’s appeal lies in its heart stoppingly pretty old town - a beguiling place for camera clad tourists owing to its wooden boardwalks and unique shops. Fun to browse stores include the Temecula Lavender Company (a haven for all things lavender), the Temecula Olive Oil Company where you can taste blood orange, basil and balsamic vinegars and the Old Town Root Beer Company. The latter is the place to peruse more than 100 flavours of root beer and perhaps indulge in a root beer float - a beat the heat treat made with vanilla ice cream and root beer, that was invented back in 1874.

But it’s not all about tradition. New bars and restaurants are mushrooming and I enjoyed a fabulous meal at The Gambling Cowboy - a family owned All American steakhouse where I found myself fast slipping into a food coma (I blame the brownie martini).  Yes eating here is without a doubt bad for the waist, but boy is it good for the soul. E.A.T. (Extraordinary Artisan Table) is another standout Temecula restaurant and one that participates in the Slow Food movement, a not for profit organisation that’sdedicated to improving the way we eat.

However while there are plenty of excellent eateries in Temecula, fab hotels are currently few and far between. The Temecula Creek Inn is both characterful and comfortable boasting every amenity you could desire - including a stunning 27-hole championship course that received the coveted Four Star rating from Golf Digest Places to Play - but there aren’t many, if any, other charming hotels in town.

There’s no pumping party scene either (for nightlife you need to head to the nearby Pechanga Resort and Casino, the largest in the Western U.S) but those who venture to Temecula mainly do so for its peacefulness. Compared with the rest of the state, it feels like exactly what it is: off the beaten track and undiscovered.

At the risk of gushing, I’d recommend you visit andexperience a part of California that has largely been forgotten. That would make the tourism board’s day. But don’t worry about them - be selfish and go for yourself because, with so much on offer, it can only be a matter of time before Temecula becomes the next Napa. Explore, enjoy and get there before everybody else does.

For more inspiration and information on what to do in Temecula, click here

California Dreamin’

Want to blast away the blues? Go west to the Golden State, writes Kaye Holland

I could barely contain my excitement as I fiddled with my in-flight socks en-route to the Californian coastal cities of San Diego, Los Angeles and San Francisco. The charms of this trio of metropolises have been well documented but done nothing to dent their power and, for first time visitors to the golden state, San Diego, LA and San Francisco are on the standard schedule because –  well they’re worth it.

My first stop was San Diego where an aviator clad Tom Cruise once gunned his motorbike in Top Gun. Situated on the southern edge of California, close to the Mexico border, San Diego has sun at times of the year when Europe is under a dark blanket  - but it’s not just sun worshippers like me who are drawn here.

Other assets of this sun kissed city include a world renowned zoo boasting one of the most successful Giant Panda breeding programmes in the world, Balboa Park with its 16 museums, chi chi boutiques, diverse dining and laid back hangouts in the gorgeous Gaslamp quarter and exquisite Spanish architecture. Indeed the Hispanic influence can be felt in every shop and square in Old Town San Diego Historic Park: the currency maybe dollars but in, what is arguably the historic core of the city, you’ll hear salsa and Spanish more often than English.

But it’s the long, white beaches – which have helped earn California’s second largest city the nickname ‘Sandy Ego’ – which are San Diego’s biggest draw and, along with the balmy climate and laid back culture, convinced Laura Grace Knox,  a twenty something Brit I met one evening at Petco Park (where the Padres play that ultimate American tradition, baseball), to ditch her job in the UK and go west.

According to Laura, the top beach is the one at Coronado– a stunning stretch of sand full of watchable people. It also has one of the swankiest hotels on the planet in Hotel del Coronado – best known as the spot where Some Like It Hot starring Marilyn Monroe, Tony Curtis and Jack Lemmon was shot in 1958. Other spots to stretch out your beach towel and play in the Pacific waves include the relaxed Ocean Beach, popular Mission Beach – 4,600 acres of water sports and the famous Sea World – and the upscale beach community, La Jolla (pronounced La Hoya). It’s perfectly possible to do all of the main sights in a day on a trolley ride, but admittedly that goes against the chilled out nature of the place.

By contrast, LA – just a two hour drive or three hour Amtrak train ride north from San Diego - has a completely different character being all bright lights, big hotels, freeways, smog and super sized shopping malls. Stir into the mix brilliant beaches, fabulous theme parks (Disneyland, Universal Studios), museums (for what it’s worth my favourite is the Grammy Museum over at LA Live), a slew of trendy bars, live music venues, and fine restaurants (patronised by a perma tanned clientele) and boredom is not an option. LA, like it southern california cousin is hot but crucially it’s also hip.

What’s more it is – despite what the detractors say – surprisingly easy to explore without a car: the new Metro seven day pass, valid on all buses and trains, has helped ease the gridlock and made it a doddle to reach LA’s most exciting attractions.

Hollywood – where else? – was my first port of call. After all, you can’t come to LA and leave without seeing the famous Hollywood sign, Kodak Theatre where the stars shimmy along the red carpet for the Oscars and Walk of Fame, whose pink stars honour the famous. This place is all about dreams (to quote the closing lines of Pretty Woman: “Welcome to Hollywood. What’s your dream?”) – and the power of plastic surgery.

LA’s adoration of the body beautiful is best illustrated in West Hollywood and if you really want to tune into the Cali vibe, start your day with a spot of yoga on the sand at Santa Monica or jog along the boardwalk to Venice Beach. Here you can watch budding basketballers slam dunk on the concrete courts, while greased up bodybuilders pump iron at Muscle Beach – a legendary al fresco weight lifting centre.

A new body calls for a new wardrobe and in LA, there is only one place to get shod: take a bow Beverly Hills – the shopping block to march your manolos down. The likelihood is you’ll need to take out a loan, drain your trust fund and pull out your credit card – streets such as Rodeo Drive, Melrose Avenue and Wilshire Boulevardendorse excess and are full of shamelessly glitzy stores – but if you want to keep up with the Kardashians…  (tip: try a Starline or TMZ tour if you’re interested in seeing the playgrounds of the rich and famous.)

Plus you’ll need a killer outfit if you want to explore LA’s nightlife venues which tend to be guarded by bouncers who take their jobs a tad too seriously (so you’ll need to look the part and dress up). It’s worth the effort tho: nights out on the Sunset Strip, at the likes of Whisky-a-Go-Go, AN-dAZ, Viper Room (where actor River Phoenix overdosed in 1993 and Tommy Lee attacked a pap), Sky Bar at the Mondrian hotel and House of Blues are the bomb – and the perfect place to people watch. Expect to see a social cocktail of club-kids, sugar daddies, models and wannabes.

However if hobnobbing with celebs and pretty young things isn’t your thing, head north to San Francisco where a truly sophisticated experience awaits. If LA is sprawling and yes, occasionally soulless,  San Francisco is small – at just 46 square miles – friendly, and good to look at. In fact if you were to dream of the perfect city, chances are – fog issues aside – this European styled jewel with its wooden Victorian houses and oh so steep hills – looks a lot like it.

San Francisco’s Golden Gates – celebrating its 75th birthday this year – cables cars and Alcatraz aka the rock (America’s most dreaded high security prison) are instantly familiar, iconic landmarks but they’re not the whole picture. Not by far.

Art and culture are a big deal in this city with its head in the clouds. There are many museums to explore including the Asian Art Museum and the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art but the best is the California Academy of Sciences – a LEED certified green building that’s home to 38,000 animals in a split level aquarium and four storey rainforest!

Shopping is another prime reason to visit: the stores in San Francisco aren’t all for the masses and it’s fun to window shop arm in arm around the Haight (synonymous with the hippie movement of the 1960s) and Hayes Valley, where boutiques are unique and independently owned.

There’s plenty to draw the foodies too: make no mistake, San Francisco is one destination where you should arrive hungry. The line out the door at the Ferry Building Marketplace is crazy but it’s worth the wait for the super burrito – a local phenomenon that is to San Fran what pastrami sandwiches are to New York – and spectacular views across the Bay.

And for those attracted by the great outdoors, there’s the Golden Gate Park – affectionally referred to by San Franciscans as “the park”. This is the place to enjoy redwoods (the largest and tallest trees in the world), fine art, free music, buffalo, bonsai …

As a tourist, I found it hard to tear myself away but I did – although not without first checking house prices – for I had a flight home, to catch. But as I pressed my nose to the plane’s window, I made a mental note next time to hire a convertible and cruise along the Pacific Coast Highway taking in towns like Santa Barbara, Monterey and Carmel. Or follow in Frank Sinatra’s footsteps at Palm Springs. Or get back to nature at Yosemite National Park for in the words of California’s former governor, Arnold Schwarzenegger: “I’ll be back”.  California has long loomed large in my imagination: now it fills a piece of my heart…

California Dreamin'

Want to blast away the blues? Go west to the Golden State, writes Kaye Holland

I could barely contain my excitement as I fiddled with my in flight socks en-route to the Californian coastal cities of San Diego, Los Angeles and San Francisco. The charms of this trio of metropolises have been well documented but done nothing to dent their power and, for first time visitors to the golden state, San Diego, LA and San Francisco are on the standard schedule because –  well they’re worth it.

My first stop was San Diego where an aviator clad Tom Cruise once gunned his motorbike in Top Gun. Situated on the southern edge of California, close to the Mexico border, San Diego has sun at times of the year when Europe is under a dark blanket  - but it’s not just sun worshippers like me who are drawn here.

Other assets of this sun-kissed city include a world renowned zoo boasting one of the most successful Giant Panda breeding programmes in the world, Balboa Park with its 16 museums, chi chi boutiques, diverse dining and laid back hangouts in the gorgeous Gaslamp quarter - and exquisite Spanish architecture. Indeed the Hispanic influence can be felt in every shop and square in Old Town San Diego Historic Park: the currency maybe dollars but in, what is arguably the historic core of the city, you’ll hear salsa and Spanishmore often than English.

But it’s the long, white beaches – which have helped earn California’s second largest city the nickname ‘Sandy Ego’ – which are San Diego’s biggest draw and, along with the balmy climate and laid back culture, convinced Laura Grace Knox,  a 20-something Brit I met one evening at Petco Park (where the Padres play that ultimate American tradition, baseball), to ditch her job in the UK and go west.

The top beach, says Laura, is the one at Coronado– a stunning stretch of sand full of watchable people. It also has one of the swankiest hotels on the planet in Hotel del Coronado – best known as the spot where Some Like It Hot starring Marilyn Monroe, Tony Curtis and Jack Lemmon was shot in 1958.

Other spots to stretch out your beach towel and play in the Pacific waves include the relaxed Ocean Beach, popular Mission Beach – 4,600 acres of water sports and the famous Sea World – and the upscale beach community, La Jolla (pronounced La Hoya). It’s perfectly possible to do all of the main sights in a day on a trolley ride, but admittedly that goes against the chilled out nature of the place.

By contrast, LA – just a two hour drive or three hour Amtrak train ride north from San Diego - has a completely different character being all bright lights, big hotels, freeways, smog and super sized shopping malls. Stir into the mix fabulous theme parks (Disneyland, Universal Studios), museums (for what it’s worth my favourite is the Grammy Museum over at LA Live), a slew of trendy bars, live music venues, and fine restaurants (patronised by a perma tanned clientele) and boredom is not an option. LA, like it southern california cousin is hot but crucially it’s also hip.

What’s more it is – despite what the detractors say – surprisingly easy to explore without a car: the new Metro seven day pass, valid on all buses and trains, has helped ease the gridlock and made it a doddle to reach LA’s most exciting attractions.

Hollywood – where else – was my first port of call. After all, you can’t come to LA and leave without seeing the famous Hollywood sign, Kodak Theatre where the stars shimmy along the red carpet for the Oscars and Walk of Fame, whose pink stars honour the famous. This place is all about dreams (to quote the closing lines of Pretty Woman: “Welcome to Hollywood. What’s your dream?”) – and the power of plastic surgery.

LA’s adoration of the body beautiful is best illustrated in West Hollywood and if you really want to tune into the Cali vibe, start your day with a spot of yoga on the sand at Santa Monica or jog along the boardwalk to Venice Beach. Here you can watch budding basketballers slam dunk on the concrete courts, while greased up bodybuilders pump iron at Muscle Beach – a legendary al fresco weight lifting centre.

A new body calls for a new wardrobe and in LA, there is only one place to get shod: take a bow Beverly Hills – the shopping block to march your manolos down. The likelihood is you’ll need to get out a loan, drain your trust fund and pull out your credit card – streets such as Rodeo Drive, Melrose Avenue and Wilshire Boulevardendorse excess and are full of shamelessly glitzy stores – but if you want to keep up with the Kardashians… (Tip: try a Starline or TMZ tour if you’re interested in seeing the playgrounds of the rich and famous.)

Plus you’ll need a killer outfit if you want to explore LA’s nightlife venues which tend to be guarded by bouncers who take their jobs a tad too seriously (so you’ll need to look the part and dress up). It’s worth the effort though: nights out on the Sunset Strip at the likes of Whisky-a-Go-Go, AN-dAZ, Viper Room (where actor River Phoenix overdosed in 1993 and Tommy Lee Jones once attacked a pap), Sky Bar at the Mondrian hotel and House of Blues are the bomb, and the perfect place to people watch. Expect to see a social cocktail of club-kids, sugar daddies, models and wannabes.

However if hobnobbing with celebs and pretty young things isn’t your thing, head north to San Francisco where a truly sophisticated experience awaits. If LA is sprawling and yes, occasionally soulless,  San Francisco is small – at just 46 square miles – friendly, and good to look at. In fact if you were to dream of the perfect city, chances are – fog issues aside – this European styled jewel with its wooden Victorian houses and oh so steep hills – looks a lot like it.

San Francisco’s Golden Gates – celebrating its 75th birthday this year – cable cars and Alcatraz aka the rock (America’s most dreaded high security prison) are instantly familiar, iconic landmarks but they’re not the whole picture. Not by far.

Art and culture are a big deal in this city with its head in the clouds. There are many museums to explore including the Asian Art Museum and the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art but the best is the California Academy of Sciences – a LEED certified green building that’s home to 38,000 animals in a split level aquarium and four storey rainforest!

Shopping is another prime reason to visit: the stores in San Francisco aren’t all for the masses and it’s fun to window shop arm in arm around the Haight (synonymous with the hippie movement of the 1960s) and Hayes Valley, where boutiques are unique and independently owned.

There’s plenty to draw the foodies too: make no mistake, San Francisco is one destination where you should arrive hungry. The line out the door at the Ferry Building Marketplace is crazy but it’s worth the wait for the super burrito – a local phenomenon that is to San Fran what pastrami sandwiches are to New York – and spectacular views across the Bay.

And for those attracted by the great outdoors, there’s the Golden Gate Park – affectionally referred to by San Franciscans as “the park”. This is the place to enjoy redwoods (the largest and tallest trees in the world), fine art, free music, buffalo, bonsai …

As a tourist, I found it hard to tear myself away but I did – although not without first checking house prices – for I had a flight home, to catch. But as I pressed my nose to the plane’s window, I made a mental note next time to hire a convertible and cruise along the Pacific Coast Highway taking in towns like Santa Barbara, Monterey and Carmel. Or follow in Frank Sinatra’s footsteps at Palm Springs. Or get back to nature at Yosemite National Park for in the words of California’s former governor, Arnold Schwarzenegger: “I’ll be back”. 

California has long loomed large in my imagination: now it fills a piece of my heart…