Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv: eight great things to do

Tel Aviv - often referred to as the Miami of the Med - has been hailed “the destination of the year” and “Israel’s coolest city” by Forbes magazine no less.  And rightly so: Israel’s sin city serves up perfect beaches and a buzzy market vibe, together with and architectural treasures, gastronomy, history and culture.
What’s more you don’t need deep pockets to enjoy some time out in Tel Aviv, as easyJet flies to this city of cosmopolitan cool.
Here’s the low-down on what to do, where to eat and how to get around the ‘Hill of Spring’



Bask on a beach
Tel Aviv is arguably best known for beach culture. The Israeli city boasts a beach for every occasion and character – one to party, play sports, one for families (Metzitzim Beach), a religious beach (Nordau Beach where men and women are segregated) and another for the LBGT brigade (hello Hilton Beach). However for the swankiest stretch of sand, seek out Alma Beach, near the Charles Clore Park. Here you can enjoy the fabulous people watching opportunities, rest, relax and read that book that’s been sitting on your bedside table since Easter. 
 


Admire the architecture
Visiting Tel Aviv and not admiring the city’s beautiful white Bauhaus buildings (there are more than 400 in total) which were declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2003, is akin to travelling to Paris and failing to tick off the Eiffel Tower. Make no mistake: Tel Aviv is all about Bauhaus architecture (think curved corners, horizontal lines and an absence of ornamentation). Two of the best examples of Bauhaus style buildings include the charming Cinema Hotel (Dizengoff Square) and Soshkin House (12 Lillenblum Street).

Make friends with the locals
Whether you are in the party capital of the Middle East, for a day, a week or infinitely longer, expect to be warmly greeted by locals looking to shed the region’s international reputation. TNT defies you to resist the charms of the friendly – and unfeasibly good looking – Tel Avivians, who will bend over backwards to share their coastal metropolis with you. Those that this writer was befriended by couldn’t get over the fact that, back home in Blighty, I don’t know my neighbours: absolutely everyone knows everyone in Tel Aviv.


Shop up a storm
Good retail therapy – expect a competitive parade of preening bling – is another tremendous Tel Aviv asset. Go big on trendy Sheinken Street or Dizengoff Street – packed as they are with independent boutiques (you won’t find any chains here) for you to splash your shekels in.
However if you don’t boast the budget of Neymar and fellow footballers Gareth Bale and Paul Pogba, put the panic on hold and check out the Carmel Market where you’ll find passionate Israelis peddling everything from flip flops to face creams and fresh flowers, for peanut prices. And if you’re in town on a Tuesday or Friday between 10am-5pm make a beeline for buzzy Nahalat Binyamin Street – home to a popular pedestrianised craft market specialising in super affordable (and excellent) paintings, ceramics and jewellery.


Hot tables
Fabulous food food and drink is never hard to find in Tel Aviv, which has become something of a world class restaurant capital. Streets such as Rothschild Boulevard – an elegant avenue lined with imported oak trees and named after the famed Jewish family of financiers – are brimming with cafes and restaurants.
The waterfront eateries at the Old Port (that was given a makeover in the early 2000s by the Tel Aviv municipality) also reward a visit while the historic Old Railway Station (HaTachna) is home to to a whole host of fashionable dining venues including Vicky Cristina, (www.vicky-cristina.co.il/en/ – an outdoor tapas and wine bar named after the Woody Allen film, that’s currently the hottest ticket in town.
But you don’t have to spend a lot to eat well.  Hummus – aka the humble chick pea dish – is dirt cheap and tastes sublime, especially when slathered on a hunk of pita bread. Benedict (www.benedict.co.il/en) is another place where you can live the high life, without paying the vertigo inducing rates.

 



Jaffa jaunt
It would be easy to spend all your time in downtown Tel Aviv but it’s worth venturing to the ancient port city of Jaffa, just south of the city, to see the contrast between slick Tel Aviv and its shabby-chic neighbour.
Once the unofficial capital of the British Mandate of Palestine, today Jaffa is famed for its flea market and for serving as a film location for the hit US TV series Homeland.
Exploring Jaffa from your Tel Aviv base is safe and easy – simply a hire a bike (cycling is the best way to get around) and stick to the designated cycling lanes.


Say hello to the Holy Land
Jerusalem
- which has been seducing travellers and pilgrims since time immemorial – is another destination within easy day tripping distance of Tel Aviv. Trust TNT when we say that nothing prepares you for a visit to the Old City. Even if you aren’t remotely religious, it’s nigh on impossiblenot to be moved by the history and heritage contained within the walls of a city that’s sacred to Christians, Jews and Muslims alike. 
 

 

Stroll the promenade
Of course chances are you’re probably after a holiday not a history lesson so, back in Tel Aviv proper, spend your final evening strolling along the Tel Aviv-Jaffa Promenade. This always lively walkway is a great place to stop for a coffee, to eat a long, late dinner (this is a city that personifies la dolce vita and even at 3am every venue is heaving) at one of the many eateries, indulge in some serious people watching or simply to listen to some of the best music buskers you’re ever likely to encounter.

 

Words and pictures: Kaye Holland

Tel Aviv port 2.JPG

Memorable mid winter getaways

It’s wet, windy and dark at four o clock so it must be time to head abroad and bask in some winter sun. KH has the low-down on 10 destinations where sun, sand and sea come as standard

Palm  Springs, America
Surrounded by the stunning San Jacinto and Santa Rosa mountains, Palm Springs stands for everything I love: hot weather, fabulous sun tanned bodies and some of the some of the swankiest hotels and bars on the planet.
Located 110 miles east of Los Angeles along Hwy 111, Palm Springs is where the King of Cool and his Rat Pack cronies headed when they wanted to escape the intensity of Hollywood. However it wasn’t just Dean, Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jnr who flocked to this desert jewel. Liberace, Marilyn Monroe, Clark Gable: name your star and they’ll almost certainly have had an extravagant home here. The question isn’t so much who has stayed and played in Palm Springs, as who hasn’t? The Best of the Best’s ‘Rich And Famous Tour’ shows you the estates of the all of the celebs who helped put Palm Springs on the map.
But the real reason you flock to Palm Springs is to drink designer cocktails and dance to fresh DJ spun tunes around kidney shaped pools until the wee hours. Sure, Palm Springs won’t suit everyone – you either get it or you don’t. But if you do, like me, you can’t wait to return.

South coast, Barbados
When in Britain the sky is the colour of porridge, the leaves are falling and everyone is succumbing to the  flue, in Barbados it’s hot. Not sweltering sunstroke hot you understand, but blue skies, smattering of clouds, top up the tan hot.
Even better: it doesn’t require a string of vaccinations to get there and everyone speaks English. The majority of Brits make a beeline for Barbados’ fabled west coast which isn’t nicknamed the Platinum coast for nothing: this lap of luxury is where the jet set (think leggy models, real estate gurus, playboys and socialites) hang out.
Yes the west coast is good at showing off, but sometimes less is more right? So if, like me, you can survive a holiday without bumping into Simon Cowell and co, head south where you’ll find pockets of paradise that have not yet been lost. There’s no such thing as a bad beach in Barbados, but Brownes beach, Miami beach and Accra beach – all on the sun kissed south coast – are exceptionally fine spots to toast on a sun lounger and then spend longer in the paint box turquoise water than a dolphin.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Rio has always been hot (in every sense of the word) but right now the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvellous City) is positively sizzling! The world’s best footballers were in Rio last summer for the FIFA 2014 World Cup and they’’ll be followed by the Olympic flame in 2016.
Most visitors touch down and make a beeline for the beach – be it the world famous Copacabana or its more salubrious sibling, Ipanema, both of whom have been celebrated in song and film. Regardless of where you to choose to stretch out your beach towel, expect to see Cariocas (aka residents of Rio) from all walks of life – families, favela kids, football players, pensioners, hawkers peddling sunglasses and sarongs, and socialites in huge sunglasses – coming together to get their groove on.
It would be easy – and perfectly understandable in light of the recent Siberian weather conditions in Blighty – to spend all of your time frying yourself silly on the golden sand. But Rio offers more than just a day on the beach and only a philistine would visit without ticking off the 125ft statue of Christ the Redeemer who stands, arms outstretched, on the summit of Corcovado Mountain – and ascending Sugarloaf Mountain (also referred to as Pao de Acucar).

Sanya, Hainan
A few weeks from now you could a) be counting the shades of gray in a February day or b) lying on the sand in Sanya (there’s more to China than the Temple of Heaven and Terracotta Warriors), working on the tan.
This oasis that sits on the same latitude as Hawaii hasn’t received the recognition it deserves, having only been opened to visitors 20 years ago. As a result, it’s not as fashionable as other Asian beach destinations, but it can only be a matter of time…
Sanya marks the southernmost tip of the island of Hainan, which is roughly the same size as Belgium. Dubbed “the end of the earth” (or the “tail of the dragon” due to its remoteness in relation to Beijing), this tropical city is famous for its beaches and doesn’t disappoint. Dadonghai Bay and Sanya Bay are both fine spots for those who want to fly and flop but, budget permitting, aim to base yourself 15km east at exclusive Yalong Bay. The beach here is the best and, unless you’re mad enough to go over Chinese New Year, it’s virtually empty.

Tel Aviv, Israel
Can’t choose between perfect beaches and bronzed bodies, a buzzy city atmosphere or architectural treasures? Israel’s largest city delivers them all – along with gastronomy, history and culture -  in spades.
Of course Tel Aviv has been in the headlines recently for all the wrong reasons but don’t be deterred from visiting: travelling to Tel Aviv – whose name means ‘Hill of the Spring’ – no longer constitutes an active threat. Tourists have rarely been targeted and you’ll be warmly greeted by Israelis looking to shed their country’s international reputation.
In fact we defy you to to resist the charms of the friendly – and unfeasibly good looking – locals who will bend over backwards to help you during your sojourn in the White City. Those that I was befriended by couldn’t get over the fact that, back home in Britain, I don’t know my neighbours – absolutely everyone knows everyone in Tel Aviv.
All told if you want to put the pep back in your step, if you want to live life to the full and be bold, bright and fabulous, Tel Aviv delivers.

Riveria, Mexico
If the weather is really getting you down, fret not. Simply pull out your sense of adventure and make for Mexico’s Mayan Riviera. True the journey to get there is something of an odyssey but this is a small price to pay for a perfect mix of winter sun, beautiful beaches,  sea as turquoise as glass, ancient temple ruins, fine food and loud and proud Latin culture – in short everything you could want from a Mexican holiday.
Cancun is the gateway to this pocket of sunny paradise but his resort lined strip only gives you a limited view of what the state of Quintana Roo (pronounced Kin tah nah roh) has to offer. Instead push onto Playa del Carmen which manages to be hip as well as hot. The postcard charmer has decades of experience of welcoming European and Americans sun seekers who flock here to see and be seen on Playa’s Bounty advert beaches. World class snorkelling and diving (the underwater world here is a paradise for snorkellers and divers of every ability) can fill your days or you can just drift off a beachside bed and ogle the mahogany flesh – expect a competitive parade of preening bling – that is always on display before hitting Quinta Avenida which hums with activity at any hour.

Boracay, The Philippines
No visit to the Philippines is complete without spending some time on the island of Boracay whose pristine beaches and balmy waters provide a welcome escape for weary travellers. Yes, grass-roofed, fixed umbrellas are everywhere. And yes, hawkers do patrol the beach looking to sell their crafts. But it’s still possible to secure a stretch of sand for yourself, settle back and enjoy the unhurried pace of life. Some whinge that Boracay has become commercialised – that the island has too many resorts, eateries and bars (there’s even a shopping mall). Yet, while there are signs that the island is going upmarket  (Shangri La hotel has taken up a tenancy), Boracay still lags way behind any of its Thai equivalents, as far as rampant development goes.
At night, the island comes alive. Filipinos certainly know how to party. Head for the landmark beachfront bar of Hey! Jude or Bom Bom Bar – a sizzling hot sundowner spot. Under the setting sun and the blare of pop hits, you can enjoy timeless and unpretentious Filipino fun that modernity can’t surpass.

Cape Town, South Africa
It was back in 1850 that Sir Francis Drake described Cape Town as the “fairest cape in the whole circumference of the earth”. Fast-forward a few hundred years and Drake’s declaration still rings true. After a few grim decades, when the thought of visiting Cape Town and feeling the sun on your face was heavily tempered by the specter of violent crime, the city is once again back on the map, having firmly established itself as a travellers’ haven.
It might be possible to have a bad time in Cape Town, but it’s hard to see how. For in the aptly named ‘Rainbow Nation’, visitors can effectively combine a spectrum of different holidays in just one trip. The tourist target boasts an embarrassment of riches: its got awesome mountains, game reserves galore, cultural rewards in the shape of the city itself, scores of scenic attractions and yes – world class beaches where you can ogle the effortlessly gorgeous, long limbed locals basking in the sunshine. (You won’t see many soaking up the surf as the waters are cold enough to keep even the keenest of swimmers out of the ocean). Other pluses? Prices are reasonable, if not remarkably cheap and there’s no jet lag to contend with.

Dubai, UAE
As recently as two decades ago few Brits had heard of, yet alone been to, Dubai. Now the emirate is a permanent fixture on the winter sun scene thanks to its promise of guaranteed rays, without the need to fly halfway around the globe.
People, perhaps understandably given the emirate’s penchant for publicising its outlandish projects, have the wrong idea about Dubai – believing it to be all about  malls and modernity.
However scratch beneath the shiny surface and you’ll find another side to the ‘city of gold’. Alongside the skyscrapers like the Burj Al Arab (the self proclaimed seven star hotel) and the Emirates Towers sit historical sites such as Bastakia  and the creek – arguably the heart beat of Dubai. Here you can watch abras and dhows (traditional Arab sailing boats) weave their way across the water, as they have done for centuries. For further local flavour, factor in a tour of Jumeirah Mosque (Dubai is after all an Islamic state even if it isn’t quite how you’d envisage Arabia) before sauntering through the bustling souks. Bottom line? There’s awful lot to discover about Dubai beyond what you know from the glossy brochures.

Nha Trang, Vietnam
If you’ve ever wondered what Goa looked like before the hippies or Thailand before the high rise hotels, then Nha Trang could be your last chance to find out. Vietnam’s beach capital may not have previously figured on your mental map, yet when you get there it’s hard to see why not.
Allow me to paint the picture… the sea is the colour of Bombay sapphire, the sky is perpetually blue and the sand is platinum blonde and squeaks when you walk on it. Right now it’s warm rather than scorching, but six hours of sunshine a day is still a distinct improvement on Blighty. To the beach you can add cultural treasures, great surf and dive sites, good retail therapy, lively nightlife, fabulous food and everything from hostels to super swish resorts.
When night falls, seek out The Sailing Club: a friendly bustling establishment on the beach that’s a great spot for a night out. As you stand watching the waves crash onto the shore with a cool beer in hand while a calypso throbs in the background, you wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.

 

Time out in Tel Aviv

Kaye Holland takes time out in Tel Aviv aka the Miami of the Med

Can’t choose between perfect beaches and bronzed bodies, a buzzy market vibe or architectural treasures? Israel’s largest city delivers them all – along with gastronomy, history and culture -  in spades. And as winter sets in, a few days in Tel Aviv where it’s baking in a bikini hot by day and t-shirt temperatures by night – is a tempting prospect. What’s more you don’t need deep pockets to chase the warm weather to Tel Aviv as easyJet (everyone’s favourite low cost airline) runs a six-times-a-week service to this city of cosmopolitan cool.

Of course Tel Aviv has been in the headlines recently for all the wrong reasons but don’t be deterred from visiting: travelling to Tel Aviv – whose name means ‘Hill of the Spring’ – no longer constitutes an active threat.  Tourists have rarely been targeted and you’ll be warmly greeted by Israelis looking to shed their country’s international reputation.

In fact I defy you to to resist the charms of the friendly – and unfeasibly good looking – locals who will bend over backwards to help you during your sojourn in the White City. Those that I was befriended by couldn’t get over the fact that, back home in Harrow, I don’t know my neighbours – absolutely everyone knows everyone in Tel Aviv.

Thecity is perhaps best known for its beach culture. There’s a beach for every occasion and character – one to party, play sports, one for families (Metzitzim Beach), a religious beach (Nordau Beach where men and women are segregated) and another for the LBGT brigade (hello Hilton Beach). However Alma Beach, near the Charles Clore Park, is arguably where you go for the swankiest sand. Stretch out your beach towel and enjoy the fabulous people watching opportunities, rest, relax and read that book that’s been sitting on your bedside table since Christmas. 

That said do rouse yourself to see some of Tel Aviv’s beautiful white Bauhaus buildings (there are more than 400 in total) which were declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2003. For – buzzing beach aside -  Tel Aviv is all about Bauhaus architecture (think curved corners, horizontal lines and an absence of ornamentation). Two of the best examples of Bauhaus style buildings include the charming Cinema Hotel (Dizengoff Square) and Soshkin House (12 Lillenblum Street).

Good retail therapy – expect acompetitive parade of preening bling – is another big draw. Shop till you drop on trendy Sheinken Street or Dizengoff Street – packed as they are with independentboutiques(you won’t find any chains here) and glitzy, if garish, wedding gown shopsfor you to splash your shekels in. Don’t have deep pockets? Check out the Carmel Market where you’ll find passionate Israelis peddling everything from flip flops to face creams and fresh flowers for a snip. And if you’re in town on a Tuesday or Friday make a beeline for buzzy Nahalat Binyamin Street – home to a popular pedestrianised craft market between 10am-5pm. Even if you’re not planning on purchasing any of the excellent paintings, ceramics and jewellery, it’s worth visiting for the atmosphere alone – the open air market is alive with Instagramable mine artists, buskers and dancers.

South of Binyamin Street lies Neve Tzdedek – the city’s oldest European style neighbourhood and a great place to stop for a coffee, to eat a long, late lunch or stay out drinking and dancing until 3am. Make no mistake: this is a city that personifies la dolce vita  and even at 3am every venue is overflowing with people letting off steam and sipping Goldstar (the local beer) or filling up on felafel.

Speaking of which, good food and drink is never hard to find in Tel Aviv which has become something of a world class restaurant capital. Streets such as Rothschild Boulevard – an elegant avenue lined with imported oak trees and named after the famed Jewish family of financiers – are brimming with cafes (Tel Avivians seem to live in cafes) and restaurants. The waterfront eateries at the Old Port (which was given a makeover in the early 2000s by the Tel Aviv municipality) also reward a visit. And the historic Old Railway Station (often referred to as HaTachna) is home to to a whole host of fashionable dining venues including Vicky Cristina – an outdoor tapas and wine bar named after the Woody Allen film – that’s currently the hottest ticket in town.

But you don’t have to spend a lot to eat well.  Hummus – aka the humble chick pea dish – is dirt cheap and tastes sublime, especially when slathered on a hunk of pita bread. Benedict is another spot where you can live the high life without paying the vertigo inducing rates.

Being all about pleasure, it would be easy (and perfectly understandable) to stay in downtown Tel Aviv but it’s worth venturing to the ancient port city of Jaffa, just south of the city, to see the contrast between slick Tel Aviv and its shabby-chic neighbour.

Jaffa was once the unofficial capital of the British Mandate of Palestine: today it’s famed for its flea market and as a film location for the hit US TV series Homeland. Exploring Jaffa from your Tel Aviv base is safe and easy – just hire a bike (cycling is the best way to get around) and stick to the designated cycling lanes.

Jerusalem - which has been seducing travellers and pilgrims since time immemorial – is another destination within easy day tripping distance. Nothing prepares you for a visit to the Old City: even if you aren’t religious, it’s hard not to be moved by the history and heritage contained within the walls…

But you’re probably after a holiday – you work hard, right? – and not a history lesson so allow for a final day in TA. Who knows you might have trouble tearing yourself away… this does happen – something Sonia, a 30 something French lady, whom I met over a breakfast of shakshuka (a to die for egg and spicy tomato dish)  - can attest to. Sonia who had been living in London for 12 years came once on holiday, fell in love with the city and then promptly threw her old life overboard and found a way to move to Tel Aviv for good.

With so much on offer – Tel Aviv, and its enticing blend of exotic and familiar, is one of those places where just being there makes you feel better - I’m tempted to follow suit…

Bottom line? If you want to put the pep back in your step, if you want to live life to the full and be bold, bright and fabulous, Tel Aviv delivers. It’s an easy journey being only a short four hour flight away from Blighty but – at the risk of gushing – I’d travel to the ends of the earth for a little time out in Tel Aviv.